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Post by jamiecatheryn on Jul 2, 2015 13:52:19 GMT
I was looking near me for what I can build a garden fence for free with and thought of basket weaving saplings. I've seen it at historical sites such at Ft Ligonier down the road and thought it was awesome. Anybody built one of these? I need to put up a 180ft, 3' perimeter fence to neaten up the border of the garden and to keep rabbits out. Not going to worry about the deer, they require fences more serious than I feel like making and don't visit often. We have a lot of young birch and sumac in the forest across the street and the company that owns it doesn't care what people do there. We have rocky soil so if I find I can't drive a pointed post in I plan to dig some of the holes out for posts.
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Post by whisperwindkat on Jul 3, 2015 10:40:08 GMT
We have built several wattle fences out of trash tree saplings. Here is my advice...make sure your posts are sturdy and taller than your fence needs to be. If they are not treated posts then they will rot at the base in a year's time. If they are taller than needed to start with then a sledge hammer will drive them back down into the ground, giving another year to the life of the fence. You need to install your fence while your wood is green and pliable. Don't cut it and then let it sit, otherwise you will not be able to weave it around the posts. Also, set your posts about 2-3 feet apart. The closer the posts, the tighter the weave and the sturdier the fence. This is especially important as the fence ages and the wood shrinks. If built correctly a wattle fence will keep out deer also. I have goats that stand on one of mine to reach the tree limbs that hang over it. Wattle fences are not meant to last a long time without some help. We have often had to remove branches and insert new ones, or push all the weaving down and add new to the top. However, for us though it is worth it since it gives us free fencing and we love the look of them. We get loads of compliments from people who come over. They do look really nice if maintained well. If you have any more questions let me know. Blessings, Kat
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Post by Use Less on Jul 3, 2015 11:12:48 GMT
When the village dissolves at the end of the year, since what the town will provide in the way of brush pick-up is still an open question, this may be what I do with excess maple saplings and forsythia branches.
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Post by Bear Foot Farm on Jul 4, 2015 3:00:26 GMT
I suspect that in anything other than very dry climates that type of fence would only last a year or so, and wouldn't be very sturdy at all.
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Post by jamiecatheryn on Jul 4, 2015 14:34:21 GMT
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Post by whisperwindkat on Jul 5, 2015 10:28:24 GMT
I don't know if that would work. Posts are usually cut and then allowed to dry a year. The moisture in the wood itself is a problem. Our fences have lasted but not without some spring maintenance, but then I have never known a fence that didn't need some maintenance. What we do with the posts is each spring we stand on a ladder with a sledge hammer and drive the post back into the ground. Occasionally, we have had to replace a broken stave but that is as easy as taking out the broken one and replacing it with a fresh green stave that can be bent and manipulated. Now, if you can get red cedar to use for posts they will last much more than a year. The red cedar that I used has not had any problems for about 6 years. A lot depends on the wood that you use. This was a way for us to use up some trash trees that we needed to clear out anyway. The best woods in the fence are Chinese tallow, red cedar, and oak. The pecan and sweet gum were not the best woods but they served a purpose. Blessings, Kat |
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