Replacing a gate post...

[motdaugrnds]

I have a 4' metal gate connected to a very large treated "gate post" (a 6x6 treated post).  Well, to my surprise that treated post has rotted which of course means it needs to be replaced. However, that post is about 4 ft taller than my fencing now; so all I really need to do is cut off the rotted bottom, move the ... ummm thingies that held that metal gate ... put the same post back in a fresh hole and re-attach the gate and woven fence.  Now I've done this before except that the post needing replaced was not the one the gate swung on. It was also a "fence" post and not one used for construction...if that makes a difference.

I've already taken the wire off this gate post. I used some ... ummm stuff that loosens bolts ... and "lifted" the gate off. (I have not been able to...nor do I even know how at this point... to take those metal things out, i.e. the ones that are inside that gate post for the metal gate to hook to.)  And I've already pushed that hugh treated post over.  Golly the bottom 2 ft that was in the ground is terrible; and the rot comes up within 2" of where the bottom ... ummm thingies that held that metal gate ... is.

It is drizzling rain here and I started sneezing; so I'm leaving my goats locked up (so they cannot get past where that gate was) and have come inside to take some Vit C, drink some hot coffee, eat a hot breakfast and talk here to you all.  I'm hoping to get some understanding as to how to complete this project. Then should the rain let up, I'm hoping to go back out and finish the job, though it will depend on how I'm feeling.  (At my age it is foolish to take chances on getting ill.)

I could take a picture but I don't think it is necessary. Just imagine a treated 6x6 post that "was" 10 ft tall laying down on the ground with about 2 ft of one end rotted. Then picture those metal ... ummm thingies that have been placed "inside" that post (2 of them) on which the gate was hung ... still in that 6x6.

Question 1: How can I get those metal thingies out of that 6x6 so I can drill another couple of holes and place them back into that 6x6 at different places, i.e. where they will need to be so as to re-hang the gate once that 6x6 has its rotted end cut off and the stud is placed back into the ground.

Question 2: My chainsaw does not work; so can I use my circular saw (one I use to cut building materials) to cut off that rotted end; and if so, how?  (The metal thingy that is still in that post is near that rot and the saw will not slide over its head.)

Question 3: Since this 6x6 has already proven it will rot, even though it has taken over 10 yrs to do so, how would you put it in the ground this time to help deter its rotting again? Or would you even concern yourself with its rotting again since it lasted so many years the first time....

Any suggestions/ideas/information offerred will be appreciated.

[shellymay]

First MEASURE THE DISTANTANCE BETWEEN PINS ON POST THAT YOU WANT TO REMOVE, THIS IS THE DISTANCE YOU WILL WANT WHEN REPLACING THEM IN THE GOOD USABLE PART OF POST THAT WILL BE LEFT

Assuming your talking about this www.ebay.com/itm/like/161168831697?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true USE a boxed or closed end wrench

www.google.com/search?q=closed+end+wrench&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=923&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwi3s5

and place it over the part that sticks out of the post and turn counter clock wise, use a wrench that is just slightly bigger then the size of the metal pin, don't use one that is way to big or the slop will allow it to fall off as you turn, if it is hard to turn counter clock wise (because of your physical strength) put a pipe over the wrench that is twice as long as the wrench (we call that a cheater pipe) as this will triple your strength and make turning it out easier.....

If you want you can replace post using some concrete around it at bottom and this will slow down the rot time by many more YEARS  Once pins are out of post

you can then saw off bottom bad part, yes your saw will work just put a line around the post with pencil or marker and cut one side rotate and cut next rotate, hope this helps

[motdaugrnds]

shellymay, what a gem you are. Thank you so much. Your instructions are quite clear and, yes, those URLs depict exactly what I have. I don't have any "pipe" I could use to extend the wrench; so I'm not sure I can get those "pins" out. However, maybe I can use a hammer to do this. At least I know how now thanks to you.

Yes, I have some concrete I can use; and I will do so.

My gratitude is yours.

[here to stay]

Get a piece of scrap pipe. It will make your life so much easier. The world is full of old used pipe.

[motdaugrnds]

Yes, I will be keeping my eyes open for an old pipe...about 2 ft long and ...ummmm 1" diameter... Yes? Different size?

I was able to get both of those pins out. I was not so fortunate to have had a piece of pipe; however, I did have a "box-type" wrench and a 4 lb hammer that I use to put metal stakes into the ground. WOW was that hard! Still the pins were only about 4" into the wood and, though rusted around the threads, did come out. Of course now there are two holes I need to fill with something. Ran out of "wood" glue.

Then I worked that hole it had come out of, finding a 5" piece of cedar log that obviously had been in that hole before this 6x6 was placed there. Got that stump out too. Now I'm worn out! The day is sunny so I suspect, after I rest a bit, I'll prepare the concrete...Got three 50 lb bags still in the van. Never worked with this size before; so have no idea how to even pick them up. So I'll push the wheel barrow up near and hopefully be able to push a bag into that. (I put a new wheel on this thing awhile back so it is rolling well.)

I'm tired but feeling really good that I have accomplished what I did. Reminds me of what a friend told me a few years back. She had been talking with my mother. She told me what my mother had said, "After seeing her build that barn, I don't think there is anything she cannot do." I remember thinking at the time...yes, that's right! I'm superwoman! But I'm up in years now and, though I can look around this place and cannot deny I've done some things most women would not have done, I'm not so foolish as to think I can keep on doing those things. This gate post is certainly a challenge! Yet one step at a time with rest between and it works out. (One funny note here: Some of you know I have a Karakachan who thinks she needs to monitor what I do. Well, yes I was tired struggling with those pins and here Valentina came to sit and check me out. ROFL This time she actually got her nose right up into what I was working on which caused me to have to stop using that 4 lb hammer for awhile. Guess she thought I needed a breather...ROFL)

[shellymay]

Congrads girl for getting them out, YES rest awhile (it would make me feel better if you did also) If you haven't already tackled those concrete bags (if) slide one

bag (that is plenty and maybe more then you need?) slide it to rear of van and put your wheel barrow right up against the van and cut a line in the concrete bag and let it start pouring into wheel barrow, you can mix half of bag at time with a little water (start slow when adding water) and then dump in hole (make sure to tap it down in and around post) then if you need more you can go back to van and dump the remaining amount into wheel barrow

FYI, when you drill NEW hole in post for those lag screws you must use a drill size that is smaller then the lag bolt (metal bracket) and then the fun of using your strength again to screw them back in new locations,  again it would be easier with a pipe that is a little bigger then your wrench , but you could use a adjustable wrench or pipe wrench, disadvantage is the hole that the lag bolt goes in that is closer to ground because a pipe wrench or adjustable wrench will hit the ground and stop, but can be done with some patients

[motdaugrnds]

Thanks Shellymay. I did manage to get that 50 lb bag out of the van in a way similar to what you suggested, i.e. I dragged it to the end of the van and stood it on its end. Then I let the whole thing fall into the wheel barrow. Since I've mixed this stuff before, I guessed pretty right with the water needed, stirred it well and took it to the hole.

I took off the rotted end, poured some quickrete into the hole for it to sit on and placed it back in. Then I braced it on all 4 sides with rather large rock. When the 6x6 was stabilized, I started spading in the concrete and using a metal "puncher" a friend loaned me to make sure the concrete got under and between all the stabilizing rocks. Then I finished pouring the entire 50 lb bag in that hole around that log, adding some more large rock nearing the surface. It has now been curing for a few hours. I'm not going to do anything else to it until tomorrow afternoon as I want the concrete to harden well. I don't want that thing to move at all when I start working on it again. (I still have my goats locked in the barn as I know they would enjoy my orchard if they were out.)

I can tell you now I'm not looking forward to putting those bolts back into that post, especially the one near the bottom. Not real sure I'm going to be able to do it but will certainly give it a good try. Yes I know the holes need to be slightly smaller than the threads of the bolts/pins; however, I may need to settle for a hole a little larger than that...maybe the same size as the pins so I can hammer then into the wood instead of screw them in. I will try to screw them in first though.

I've already stood the metal gate near it and it is nice and straight, allowing for my gate to hang level and reach the adjacent post it fastens to.

This sure was a hard day. My body is already telling me..."If you think I'm sore now, just wait until tomorrow..." ROFL Seems I cannot get away with anything! ROFL Age sure can be a nuisance!

[fordy]

...........IF , you want your wood posts to last longer.........go buy a gallon can of roofing tar at the lumber yard . Keep the can inside and prior to using some of the product , see if your oven has a "warm" function , IF yes , put the can in the oven for 20 minutes or so ! It is much easier to work with when warm than cold . Use an old paint brush and Paint the full length(of the in ground portion) of any post you'll be putting in the ground . Even better is to paint it and then let it sit for a day or so before sticking it in the ground . , fordy

[fordy]

May 23, 2016 23:20:14 GMT motdaugrnds said:

Thanks Shellymay. I did manage to get that 50 lb bag out of the van in a way similar to what you suggested, i.e. I dragged it to the end of the van and stood it on its end. Then I let the whole thing fall into the wheel barrow. Since I've mixed this stuff before, I guessed pretty right with the water needed, stirred it well and took it to the hole.

I took off the rotted end, poured some quickrete into the hole for it to sit on and placed it back in. Then I braced it on all 4 sides with rather large rock. When the 6x6 was stabilized, I started spading in the concrete and using a metal "puncher" a friend loaned me to make sure the concrete got under and between all the stabilizing rocks. Then I finished pouring the entire 50 lb bag in that hole around that log, adding some more large rock nearing the surface. It has now been curing for a few hours. I'm not going to do anything else to it until tomorrow afternoon as I want the concrete to harden well. I don't want that thing to move at all when I start working on it again. (I still have my goats locked in the barn as I know they would enjoy my orchard if they were out.)

I can tell you now I'm not looking forward to putting those bolts back into that post, especially the one near the bottom. Not real sure I'm going to be able to do it but will certainly give it a good try. Yes I know the holes need to be slightly smaller than the threads of the bolts/pins; however, I may need to settle for a hole a little larger than that...maybe the same size as the pins so I can hammer then into the wood instead of screw them in. I will try to screw them in first though.

I've already stood the metal gate near it and it is nice and straight, allowing for my gate to hang level and reach the adjacent post it fastens to.

This sure was a hard day. My body is already telling me..."If you think I'm sore now, just wait until tomorrow..." ROFL Seems I cannot get away with anything! ROFL Age sure can be a nuisance!

Use a large crescent wrench to screw those gate hanger bolts into their holes . , fordy

[motdaugrnds]

fordy , I used a large wrench to take the two pins out; and I had to hit the wrench with my 4 lb hammer because I didn't have enough strength to turn (unscrew) the pins. I'll certainly use a large crescent when I go to screw the bolts back into the holes. I'm just not sure I'm going to have the strength to do it; thus will need to get creative in order to get the job done.

I sure wish I had known about using tar around the part that goes in the hole. I have some here and would have done that. The post was in before I read your suggestion Fordy.

[shellymay]

motdaugrnds , Same theory just different way of doing it...........most wrenches have a hole in the end of them and it you have one of those big heavy duty screw drivers (something that fits hole in end of wrench that won't bend) stick the screw driver in end hole about 1/4 of the way and this will also give you more strength   again we call it cheater pipe but instead of over the wrench you will be using the hole in end and getting that extra strength from the extra length of screw driver in the end, the length of tool is what gives you the force or strength, lets us know how it turns out   

[motdaugrnds]

shellymay , Thank you for that bit of information. Yes I do have some large wrenches with holes in end...box wrench? That is actually what I used to get the pins out with...plus the 4 lb hammer. I also have some heavy duty screw drivers I can work with; and may give that a try.

This morning I woke with my sholders and arms hurting; so didn't get out as early as I wanted. However, I was able to run the extension cord and find all the tools I may need, placing all conveniently out near that gate. I also took the fencing off it as it was getting in the way. (I had placed that over the gate to keep baby goats from sneaking into the orchard.)

Then I used some old brick that has been laying around for awhile to set the gate on in a way that it would be level with the new post as well as the post at the other end, i.e. a corner stud of my woodshed. Then I simply used some wire and tied that gate that way as by then I was exhausted. (It is quite warm out today and that area gets a lot of sunshine.) Not sure I'll get back out to work on it today.

I am a bit concerned about the two holes I need to drill for those pins to be placed. I have them both marked as to where they go; however, the largest drill bit I have is about 1/4th" (maybe 1/8th") in diameter smaller than the pins that will need to be screwed in. And the 6x6 to be drilled is very, very old. I'm guessing I may need to start the holes with a hammer/nail and then use a smaller drill bit before I use the largest one. Even then the holes may be too small. Seems like I use to have a drill bit that was different in that it would make holes larger; however, I cannot find it. Thus, not sure what to do if I cannot get the holes large enough to get those pins in....suggestions???

[fordy]

May 24, 2016 18:02:23 GMT motdaugrnds said:

shellymay , Thank you for that bit of information. Yes I do have some large wrenches with holes in end...box wrench? That is actually what I used to get the pins out with...plus the 4 lb hammer. I also have some heavy duty screw drivers I can work with; and may give that a try.

This morning I woke with my sholders and arms hurting; so didn't get out as early as I wanted. However, I was able to run the extension cord and find all the tools I may need, placing all conveniently out near that gate. I also took the fencing off it as it was getting in the way. (I had placed that over the gate to keep baby goats from sneaking into the orchard.)

Then I used some old brick that has been laying around for awhile to set the gate on in a way that it would be level with the new post as well as the post at the other end, i.e. a corner stud of my woodshed. Then I simply used some wire and tied that gate that way as by then I was exhausted. (It is quite warm out today and that area gets a lot of sunshine.) Not sure I'll get back out to work on it today.

I am a bit concerned about the two holes I need to drill for those pins to be placed. I have them both marked as to where they go; however, the largest drill bit is about 1/4th" (maybe 1/8th") in diameter smaller than the pins that will need to be screwed in. And the 6x6 to be drilled is very, very old. I'm guessing I may need to start the holes with a hammer/nail and then use a smaller drill bit before I use the largest one. Even then the holes may be too small. Seems like I use to have a drill bit that was different in that it would make holes larger; however, I cannot find it. Thus, not sure what to do if I cannot get the holes large enough to get those pins in....suggestions???

..............You can use sealing wax(Actually , I should have said Gulf Wax\Paraffin) to coat the threads of the screws as a lubricant to help with getting them to fit into the holes . Remember , you want your gate to be suspended a few inches above the path or road where it will hang ! Also , IF , the far end of the gate drags the ground at any point during the 90 degrees of movement to go from closed to open you can raise the end by , Unscrewing the bottom screw which pushes the gate UP and , tightening the upper screw which pulls it UP as well . , fordy

...........One last item........When I was setting gates for customers , I ALWAYS used threaded bolts with (2) sets of nuts and washers , rather than the lag screws that actually screw into the wood . Because , you can adjust the gate height by simply moving the nuts on the threaded shaft........without having to remove the whole gate . More expensive but well worth it in my opinion . , fordy 

[motdaugrnds]

Thanks for the information Fordy. Using threaded bolts with nuts at both ends certainly would be easier than these lag-bolt type pins. (I suspect even those would have been difficult in this situation because the post I've been working with is a 6x6 that has become quite hard due to age.)

I was able to start...yes start...the two holes today. Went out three times doing what I could each time. It was terrible! The only tools I had were a large drill bit (not quite large enough to give a good fit for the pins). It only made "indentations" in that hard 6x6. So I drove a 20d nail in a ways and then used a smaller drill bit. I was able to get the smaller drill bit to go all the way in several times where the hole is to be. Then I switched and used the largest drill bit I had to dig out the "weakened" wood in that area. The depth I was able to create was about half as long as the depth I need if those pins are to go all the way in. (The large drill bit could have created a longer hole; however, I couldn't get it to go in farther.) I hammered a flathead screw driver and a 20d nail, alternating those, in hopes of weakening the end of that hole so maybe the drill bit would go farther in. But it didn't work! (I guess this large bit is in dire need of sharpening.)

After several hours, I stopped working on it, put my tools away and rested. I am so discouraged! Tomorrow I'll go out again and see what I can get creative with OR I may just have to leave those holes shorter than I wanted. (I still don't know if I can screw the pins in those holes.) If I did leave these two holes shorter than the pins, the gate would come out about 1-1/2" from the post when hung; however the gate is only a 4 footer so that may be ok. At least the gate will be 3" off the ground, level and a nice fit at the other end; and the danger of its falling over when I'm not aware and my goats destroying the orchard will be gone.

I've been working on this thing now for several days and my goats have been locked up the entire time; so I need to get the job finished even if it is not done as well as I'ld like it to be done. (It's not a gate I use as often as I do the others; so maybe it would be ok.) And frankly, I'm worn out!

[motdaugrnds]

It's done!

Was out this morning while the sun was very low. Tried to drill the holes deeper and couldn't get the drill to go in farther; so started putting the pins in. Had to use the 4 lb hammer; however, I did get them to go in as far as the drilled hole permitted, which left about 1-1/2" of the pin sticking out.

Set the gate on the bottom one and discovered the top one was too low. Oh dear! I thought I had allowed some flexibility here because of the element on the gate that could be moved up and down. I did remove that element, though the bolt/nut holding it to the gate had rusted...Used some stuff in a spray can on it. Then discovered when it was where it needed to be in order to sit on the pin, there was no way to keep the element on the gate because where the bolt would go thru to hold it on the gate was one of the metal bars of the gate. Grrrrrr Well, I used some wire and connected this element to the gate. (Go ahead and laugh; however it worked.)

Now I have a 4' metal gate sitting quite level that opens and closes. I'm going to put a bracer rock under the bottom pin and another at the other end of the gate so, when the gate is closed (which is most of the time), it will not put a lot of weight on that bottom pin. I know it looks quite unprofessional (kind of like my raised bed); however, it works! I then let my goats out!

[here to stay]

I'm confused. (Yah I know.) But did you drive the gate lag bolt in with a hammer? I was trying to figure out how one used a hammer to twist in a lag bolt.

[motdaugrnds]

here to stay, I did not have enough strength to "twist" in the threaded lag bolt. So I used the hammer to drive it in as one would a nail. Yeah, I know; still one does what one's gotta do to get things done....