Chain Saw Recommend

[shin]

Any folks have a favorite they'd recommend.

I don't have a lot of land, the trees are pretty thin that I have to clear out. So something small and lighter weight suits me. But there are enough of them that those electric rechargeables sound like they won't work out, won't last enough to chop up the felled trees. Pity as I like the idea of something I don't have to wear ear muffs for.

All the sales going on this time of year I am looking around, as I'd like to get the woods in the back cleared before they start growing greenery again. Provide myself with some extra wood for wood working later on.

Last time I bought a chain saw was the first time, and it lasted for one tree, and that was it. Still don't want to spend too much. Just something to chop down these thin trees, and make some nice sized logs to season to try working with later on.

[grillbilly]

I bought a little Stihl MS-170 this spring for light work and am happy with it, got it from a full service dealer. I use the pre-mixed gas in the can in it, it is expensive but convenient for what little I use it. 

[oxankle]

Shin: I have been down that road for 50 years. My first saw was a big old McCollough--Iron tough, but heavy. In those days you bought extra chains and parts from and outfit named Zip Penn. Chains were twice as wide as those of today. Then I switched to Poulan, then made in Louisiana and used widely by pulpwood cutters. Some time after the turn of the century those saws became junk--the last I bought were trashed within months. I went to the big orange saw (now what DO they call that company--Swedes they are) I finally sprang for two Stihls, large and small, which seem to be indestructible. I've given the big one to my son in law, but the smaller, the one that starts with a one-pull, spring loaded assist, is in permanent service. For your use I'd say get that small Stihl with a 16 inch bar; probably the only saw you will ever need. Neighbor had a Stihl that was 15 years old, gasket blew, burned up a cylinder. Bought the parts, put it back together and it cut like a new saw. His son in law inherited that one.

As for gasoline, use only non-ethanol and the best oil you can find--. If you store the saw for over a month make sure it is drained and run dry or use Stabil (gasoline stabilizer) in the fuel. I never put any gasoline in my saws without Stabil mixed in the fuel. The pre-mixed fuel bought in quart cans is even better, but too pricey (in my opinion) for everyday use.

Also, learn to file your own chains. Machine sharpening is great, but it eats up chains much faster than careful hand-filing.

[shin]

Well now when you say that I don't know if I can find non-ethanol. Let's see.. try a search. Well there's a website dedicated to finding it. Plug in PA. Uh-oh.. I'll have to go on a long journey. There has to be another way. Where do you get that pre-mixed gas in a can?

I like those Stihls.. you folks and others give them good reviews. So that's what I'll probably get! Looks like the 180 is a fine model.

[Deleted]

IF it is a job and it has to be done get a PRO saw from an authorized dealer but if you have time and only cut 3-5 cord a year, pickup load at a time and are as careful as you seem to be there are many models of homeowner saws that will serve you well. Most important is to keep the chain sharp, touch up often. Run a tank of fuel out and let cool off, doing other things in between, good clean gas, good chain oil, clean air filter often (at least daily) etc.

Bi-mart here had a sale on the Poulan model for $99.00. Not a bad homeowner saw really. A homeowner model for sure. The problem is when you need a service dealer, an authorized dealer of any other brand does not want to work on your "junk" (to them) model, you need a good independent shop or authorized Poulan dealer (or brand of choice). Craftsman used to have some decent models (depending on manufacturer) parts and service was decent (depending on location). Homeowner models are all throw away saws, no matter the maker, today. You get what you pay for but a PRO model that sets around needs lots of service to keep it running too, all in the way you maintain and store your saw....James

[oxankle]

James; pound for pound the Stihl will cut faster, longer, easier on the operator than the Poulan and the Poulan will quit when you need it worse. The Stihl (or any of the pro brands sold at saw shops) will last longer and cause less aggravation by far. As for maintenance, if you use good oil, use non-ethanol gasoline or drain the tank and run the carb dry each time you put it away, clean the air filter and keep the chain sharp you will have few problems. By far the most problems come with saws put away with bad gas and left for long periods.

Of course when you use a chain saw you need to learn about changing sprockets, turning the bar over, matching the chain to your saw, hard chains vs Walmart, ripping chains vs cross cut, keeping the chain oil pump working properly---a dozen little things that you learn. The very most important thing is how to keep from cutting off a foot or dropping a tree on yourself.

The pre-mix should be available at most auto supply stores, Lowes, Home Depot, farm stores, etc. Excellent stuff, especially for weed eaters.

[hermitjohn]

I will put in good word for Makita/Dolmar (Makita bought Dolmar and makes all their saws in the German Dolmar factory). Same saws sold under both names. I have a bigger Makita and like it. Also look at Echo saws, they make some very nice small to medium saws. They bought out Shindaiwa. I had couple Shindaiwa saws and they held together amazingly well. Little on heavy side but super solid and well put together. Werent the easiest to get parts for as they aged. Nothing Japanese is really supported very well past ten years unless widely popular and has lot third party parts support.

Now if you want cheap cheap, friend of mine bought a generic Chinese saw off ebay. It ran ok, but no oil to chain. We finally found the screw to adjust oil feed, for some reason it came from factory fully closed off. Then it worked fine. Lot cheaper than the box store Poulans and Homelites and other small suburbanite throw away saws. Probably last about as well, but no doubt best owned by somebody that likes to tinker. I am guessing by feel of it, the rope pull recoil mechanism would eventually become a problem, felt really rinky dink and light duty, rest of saw felt fine. Guessing its a copy of some older Euro or Japanese saw. Replacement rope pull is cheap on ebay as are many other parts. Still its a great bargain for the occasional user. I personally probably prefer a used pro saw but new has its advantages.

[hermitjohn]

Nov 26, 2016 18:04:49 GMT oxankle said:

 In those days you bought extra chains and parts from and outfit named Zip Penn. Chains were twice as wide as those of today.

I remember Zip Penn.  Back at that time I owned a smaller Pioneer saw and that was the place to get parts, nobody local supported it.

[hermitjohn]

Oh, also dont put all your faith in some brand name. I used to work for guy with horse farm. He had an older Stihl and older Husky and older Homelite (back when they were a serious saw) that were fine. I liked the Husky the best, but the other two were nearly as good. But for some reason he brought home a little consumer Stihl, smallest one they sold. Newer one at time and sure he got it cheap, he was a sucker for a bargain... Honest, the box store Poulan was a better saw. That thing only had one bolt to hold chain bar so chain was continually slacking off. It was just a bad plastic design made as absolutely cheap as possible to cash in on Stihl name.

[shin]

These Stihls are a little harder to find than the other brands for me. I don't see them at many of the online shops, and haven't found them on sale yet. Place in the next town over carries them, though I've never been there before, they have a small web store -- no sales though yet.

Nearly broke down and bought a throwaway saw the other day since it was so cheap on sale. Well, we'll see, I try to only make big tool purchases when I can find a coupon or sale.

[Rustaholic]

I love my 16 inch bar Husqvarna saw. Right now I am not sure if it is a 40 or a 45. All I do know is 16 years later it is my go-to saw for anything.

[hermitjohn]

Nov 26, 2016 18:04:49 GMT oxankle said:

Also, learn to file your own chains. Machine sharpening is great, but it eats up chains much faster than careful hand-filing.

Machine sharpening by some kid at hardware store eats up chains.  They have no incentive to be frugal, quicker they grind away your chain, the sooner they sell you a new chain.  You do it yourself, you just barely bump the cutter with the wheel, barely takes any metal off at all, just renews the edge.  Also doesnt heat up the metal!  And frankly you get lot more uniform edge with less metal removal than most people can do with a file.

 Takes LOT practice to become truly proficient with a file sharpening freehand.  Uniform length of cutters not that important, uniform angle and edge on the cutters is important.  So if you hit something and seriously damage one cutter, for pete's sake dont grind down all the other cutters to try and make them all uniform length.  Just put a new uniform edge on damaged cutter if possible, or grind it completely off the chain.  One missing cutter not going to matter. 

[oxankle]

Reviewing old posts,.

John, I agree with you on the filing. If you have your own sharpening machine and are willing to move the chain by hand so that you "barely bump the cutter" you get a much better job. I had such a machine in OK, but in the field I sharpened by hand. I kept several chains, and if I thought I had dulled one too much, or the angles were out of kilter I changed chains and trued up the bad chain back at the barn.

[frogmammy]

If that picture is all you have to cut, why not just cut it down with an ax? Use a Bucksaw or crosscut saw to get it down to size. Slower, but cheaper and good exercise.

Mon

[hermitjohn]

Jan 19, 2018 2:33:34 GMT frogmammy said:

If that picture is all you have to cut, why not just cut it down with an ax? Use a Bucksaw or crosscut saw to get it down to size. Slower, but cheaper and good exercise.

Mon

Sharpening a handsaw maybe harder than chain on chainsaw. Also had a uncle missing couple toes from using an ax in his youth.

Also will say sharpening an ax properly makes huge difference. Most just grind the heck out of it, but if sharpened like you would properly sharpen a knife making finely honed edge, then it will cut much better and faster.

I keep a little hatchet around due to some particularly stringly oak. Cut the stringy bits to get wood apart after splitting. Amazing what it can do properly sharpened. Just small boyscout type hatchet from olden days. Dont suppose they let kids touch hatchets anymore, afraid they will go postal and kill somebody... Or else hurt themselves and somebody important might get sued.

[bigjon]

husky-455 rancher-20' bar.over 300 face cord thru it.10years old.still starts second pull.non ethanol gas.