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TIG
Apr 11, 2015 23:08:15 GMT
Post by graywolf on Apr 11, 2015 23:08:15 GMT
I've got a 220 MIG and an O/A setup but "need" a TIG. From what I read, there is a lot of magic in the foot pedal, almost as much as the machine itself.
is this true?
Could I get an average machine and a fancy pedal for less money overall and still end up with a good TIG setup?
I've been happy with my Hobart MIG and would like to avoid stepping up to a Miller or Lincoln if I could. Anybody have a Hobart TIG?
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TIG
Apr 12, 2015 17:29:21 GMT
Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2015 17:29:21 GMT
At work we use the Miller MAXSTAR 150's not sure what they cost but they are very dependable. we use the 9v and 17v air cooled torches and the Maxstar is high frequency and has the place to attach a foot pedal. Miller also makes the MAXSTAR in a 200 which I think is a better machine but it is not as practical for work in the field. The 150 will operate on 110v or 220v it is internally sensing so it knows what voltage it is being supplied with. I am not sure if the 200 is dual voltage or not. Hope this is helpful.
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TIG
Apr 12, 2015 18:19:39 GMT
Post by graywolf on Apr 12, 2015 18:19:39 GMT
At work we use the Miller MAXSTAR 150's not sure what they cost but they are very dependable. we use the 9v and 17v air cooled torches and the Maxstar is high frequency and has the place to attach a foot pedal. Miller also makes the MAXSTAR in a 200 which I think is a better machine but it is not as practical for work in the field. The 150 will operate on 110v or 220v it is internally sensing so it knows what voltage it is being supplied with. I am not sure if the 200 is dual voltage or not. Hope this is helpful. Hmmmm.... I never thought about a 110 machine that might be handy to take anywhere. Aside from duty cycle, does 110 do what 220 does? How tough would it be for a beginner to TIG to work without the pedal?
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TIG
Apr 12, 2015 19:20:25 GMT
Post by Bear Foot Farm on Apr 12, 2015 19:20:25 GMT
It would be easy to learn the basic technique, but you'd lose a lot of heat control.
It largely depends on what you're trying to weld
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2015 19:22:43 GMT
We use them hard 10+ hours a day. They hold up fine. The one I carry is over 2 years old. They have lift arc which is what we use in the field as a foot pedal wouldn't be practical to carry around in a rack welding pipe.
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TIG
Apr 12, 2015 20:22:18 GMT
Post by graywolf on Apr 12, 2015 20:22:18 GMT
It would be easy to learn the basic technique, but you'd lose a lot of heat control. It largely depends on what you're trying to weld I'd like to be able to stick stainless sheet together. Nothing thicker than 10 gauge. And some chrome-molly tubing 3/4" to 1 1/2". (I'm thinking I could tack everything together and then bring it to a SFI certified welder.) And some 16-24 guage aluminum sheet. I have delusions of eventually building a big-block gutted and tubbed car to play with.
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TIG
Apr 12, 2015 22:19:25 GMT
Post by Bear Foot Farm on Apr 12, 2015 22:19:25 GMT
The thinner the material, the more you will want total control of the heat
Steels are pretty easy, and Aluminum is just nasty to work with if you're used to pretty beads
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TIG
Apr 13, 2015 0:19:03 GMT
Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2015 0:19:03 GMT
It is not that hard to learn the basics. If you already know how to weld and I assume that you do have some skill at some form of welding tigging is just another way of doing it. 10 gauge is nearly 1/4 inch it should be no problem even with lift arc. We weld .035-.125 wall tubing as well as schedule 10-80 3/4 inch-14 inch pipe with the MAXSTAR 150 and lift arc.
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TIG
Apr 13, 2015 4:56:02 GMT
Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2015 4:56:02 GMT
The short answers are a 120v machine will not produce the amperage of a 240v machine. For TIG the "Rule of Thumb" is 1 amp of output for every .001" of thickness. A bit more for aluminum or other metals that are good conductors of heat. You will need 240v to get the ~150 amps to weld 10 gauge. A 120v unit will probably get you 100 amps output.
I tried the cheap TIG solution (Arc welder plus High Frequency unit, TIG torch and cylinder of Argon). Yes it works, but difficult to learn TIG. The problem is as you weld the part is heating up and you will need to reduce the input to control the puddle. Puddle control is everything, without a pedal or thumb control you are limited.
Also note you may want to weld aluminum at some point. For aluminum you need AC output, for steels you need DC output. High frequency is used to initiate the arc without touching the tungsten to the work.
I searched for a while before I found an older 300 amp AC/DC unit complete from torch to cylinder for $750.
TIG is not cheap. Besides the welder, you need a flowmeter, cylinder of Argon shielding gas, tungstens, cups, collets and a selection of filler rods. Be prepared for those costs.
If you can not afford a new power source, I would recommend searching for a good used 240v AC/DC machine. It will not loose much value and will be much easier to sell when you no longer need it.
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TIG
Apr 14, 2015 16:54:02 GMT
Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2015 16:54:02 GMT
Check and see if you can put a mini spool gun on your welder. I had to use one when my Cobamatic push pull feed system went out for repairs. It worked well on aluminum.
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