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Post by snoozy on Apr 16, 2015 15:35:20 GMT
A friend got into beekeeping a while back, and brought me some of his best raspberry honey. (I believe he has topbar hives.) I must say, it is some very fine honey! I'd thought about keeping bees before, so now I'm thinking again about it. Not that I eat all that much honey. But the world needs more bees, so can someone succinctly tell me how much it would cost to get started? How much time does it take to deal with them?
We live in a rural area, but in a 1 acre clearing in conifer and bigleaf maple forest. Will there be enough food for the bees? How far do they range?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2015 16:47:10 GMT
Assembled hive kits in my area on craigslist go for $200. Basic minimum langstroth hive. A package of bees will run at least 110. A nuc closer to $140. That doesn't cover any suit, veil, smoker you need.
I was out about $1000 to start my initial two hives in 2007. I have acquired a bunch of used stuff cheap. I take that risk willingly. It is a risk though. There are diseases you can get by using used supplies. Once you get started you find ways to be cheaper.
Or way more expensive. I am moving to plastic outer covers and bottom boards from kelleybees simply because I am tired of replacing them due to rot issues. No amount of paint prevents all rot issues. I am curious to see lifespan of the plastic.
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Post by snoozy on Apr 16, 2015 19:15:04 GMT
Given this investment, about how much do you reckon your honey costs per lb/pt? Now -- I realize that it's not just about money, but just for comparison's sake...
And how long does a colony last? Hypothetically, and generally? Is this an investment in "livestock" that will last over many years (barring bad luck and freeze and disease)? How often or how long does it take to reproduce itself to create another swarm's worth?
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Post by ohiodreamer on Apr 16, 2015 19:48:31 GMT
We are in a "cheap pocket", apparently. There is a local Amish guy that makes and sells hives (Lang) for about $100. DH priced it out and we can't make it cheaper! We have about $100 more in "tools" and then the package of bees cost us $95. Again a local guy drives a truck and trailer down to GA helps package the bees then drives them back up the next day. So our bees are cheaper then those that have to mail order. Before you start investing money, look around for a local bee club. They are the best way to learn of local sources for "things".
charmd2 - let us know how the plastic works. They people here that have tried it said their bees didn't like it and it was better to deal with the wood and all it's issues.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2015 20:20:47 GMT
Will let you know how they work out. This is.the first year trying. I didn't replace any frames or hive bodies, just the bottom board and telescoping cover. I was sulking I couldn't find plastic migratory covers. I prefer them. In my case The honey is super expensive. This is a hobby for me. I spend far far more than I ever could produce. It is simply a bragging right to say I have bees. I do not treat for mites. I tend to have hives that last 2 years. If you choose to interact with them frequently you can split a single hive multiple times a year. bushfarms.com/bees.htm is a website I frequently recommend to newbies. A ton of info well organized. 8 have no affiliation with the site or it's owner. I have just found it useful
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2015 20:22:05 GMT
Will let you know how they work out. This is.the first year trying. I didn't replace any frames or hive bodies, just the bottom board and telescoping cover. I was sulking I couldn't find plastic migratory covers. I prefer them. In my case The honey is super expensive. This is a hobby for me. I spend far far more than I ever could produce. It is simply a bragging right to say I have bees. I do not treat for mites. I tend to have hives that last 2 years. If you choose to interact with them frequently you can split a single hive multiple times a year. bushfarms.com/bees.htm is a website I frequently recommend to newbies. A ton of info well organized. I have no affiliation with the site or it's owner. I have just found it useful
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2015 5:05:54 GMT
I built 2 top bar hives for under $100. (bought all the wood) Bee suit & smoker- another 100. Bees- free from a local beek who takes bees out of peoples houses and catches swarms.
It can be as cheap or expensive as you want.
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Post by farmchix on Apr 17, 2015 11:10:51 GMT
Hubs wantes to get started with hives, too. Luckily, we have all of my dad's old hive boxes. I have an uncle in WV who builds them. He has a bunch of hives....I call him the bee whisperer. He doesn't wear a suit!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 18, 2015 0:33:01 GMT
I assisted a friend order supplies today. 4 deeps, 4 mediums, 2 migratory covers, two bottom boards, and 80 total frames, a veil hat combo and a smoker from western bee was $208 before shipping. $303 after. We did not buy foundation. She is interested in letting them build their own comb.
This did not include any bees. I am on several swarm lists and have an ad in the local paper. We will ad bees if we get them this year. If not she can order packages next spring.
So, it can be done cheaper if you know what you are ordering. I have found most newbies really don't have any idea what they need
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Post by oxankle on May 20, 2015 15:09:08 GMT
Snoozy: I kept bees for years in Langstroth hives and I made and used top bar hives (Kenya style). You have heard the prices. I would say that the bees do not object to the "plastic" or fibreglas bottom boards, tops or inside covers. Plastic frames are another matter and will be used only if the bees are forced to them.
Difficulty of using plastic frames depends on which frame, whether it is wax-coated, cell size and beekeeper skill. I'd avoid them until I had some experience were I in your position.
If you use a top bar hive be sure you do not make it too large, and initially but in a blocking frame so that the bees have only a small space at first. I found the bees built straighter comb if I ran a strip of foundation down the center of each top bar. Groove the bar, wax in a one-inch wide strip of foundation and let the bees start on that. If they get started cross-frames you'll not be able to work the hive. Ox
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Post by Deleted on May 21, 2015 13:23:44 GMT
OK, granted, I know so little of beekeeping that it could be written large on the head of a pin, but is there a reason to not use rot-resistant woods when building hives? I don't mean pressure-treated wood, but rather, one of the more rot-resistant native woods such as black locust or osage orange. The initial cost would probably be higher, but you could probably get 20+ years with little-to-no rot problems.
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2015 1:35:16 GMT
Hmm. I thought I replied to this yesterday. I have 30 yr old pine boxes. They are starting to get in rough shape, but still useable. If you have an easily available supply of hard wood go for it.
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