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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2015 15:20:43 GMT
I'm debating whether to start my tomatoes from seed or to just buy them started at Baker Creek. We have a fairly long season here, but we are so far behind...
Any thoughts?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2015 15:52:10 GMT
I seeded tomatoes on March 2nd and I just checked... they range in height from 6 to 8 inches + already. I am in 8a zone and do not feel safe putting them in their beds until after April 15th or so. I would go with seeding. You still have time to make it worth your while and get the exact varieties that you want.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2015 15:54:00 GMT
Thanks, Trellis! I think I'll set up the Anti-Catatorium today.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2015 17:48:47 GMT
I am in zone 5. Our normal last frost date is May 10th, but last year we had frost on May 16 and 17th. I usually start my seeds indoors in mid March, but last year they got very leggy before I could put them out. So I decided I will either start them the first of April or direct sow right in the garden in May. I need to decide this week, what I want to do.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2015 18:30:11 GMT
I am in zone 5. Our normal last frost date is May 10th, but last year we had frost on May 16 and 17th. I usually start my seeds indoors in mid March, but last year they got very leggy before I could put them out. So I decided I will either start them the first of April or direct sow right in the garden in May. I need to decide this week, what I want to do. Last year, I started my cardoon inside, and it got terribly leggy. I'm going to direct seed that this year.
Never started tomatoes or peppers from seed outside, but I think I'll experiment with that this year.
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Post by paquebot on Mar 29, 2015 18:55:20 GMT
You still have time. Most know that I start mine when it's still winter on the calendar and do it outside. This year was about 15 March There are currently 75 varieties in 4-packs in a cold frame and the remote thermometer shows 40ºF as I type this. No green yet but expect some in a week or so. Remember that you don't even need true leaves to set out a tomato seedling. I've set them out with just the cotyledons with no problem. No different than potting up. The less leaves, the less transplant shock.
Martin
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2015 19:13:03 GMT
You still have time. Most know that I start mine when it's still winter on the calendar and do it outside. This year was about 15 March There are currently 75 varieties in 4-packs in a cold frame and the remote thermometer shows 40ºF as I type this. No green yet but expect some in a week or so. Remember that you don't even need true leaves to set out a tomato seedling. I've set them out with just the cotyledons with no problem. No different than potting up. The less leaves, the less transplant shock. Martin
Martin,
I assume when you say "no green", "don't even need true leaves" and "just with cotyledons" one can just about put them in their bed location a week or so after they germinate. What then would be the big advantage to growing them in trays as opposed to just direct seeding? Unless one is playing the numbers game of seeding more than wanting to plant just to cover your possible losses in germination? (like I do with everything - and I think I may have answered my own question)
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2015 20:14:02 GMT
I planted mine Jan 5. Transplanted into black tree pots Feb 20. They were 14" tall just like I like them, pinched the bottom leaves and bury deep, just 2 leaves, 3" above soil. I move them out on sunny days, south side of shop, back in at night or if/when it will frost. They have some tomatoes set on, lots of blooms. Frost here is April 20 or so but can have late frosts until 1st of June, some years. Usually have tomatoes 4th of July....James
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Post by grannyg on Mar 29, 2015 23:42:14 GMT
We are waiting for the old mesquites to put out green leaves....nothing so far...and it thundered in February......may frost in April...the latest frost was the seventeenth of April last year....we have not had fruit now for three years here so we are hopeful....
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Post by paquebot on Mar 30, 2015 4:50:39 GMT
Planting in trays has no advantage, really, as far at the plants are concerned. It's strictly for gardener convenience. One knows exactly what is going to come up and a minimum amount of space is involved. Last year, lost the Emerald Apple seedlings for some reason but still wanted to grow it. Planted one seed in each of two #7 pots in early May. Both seeds germinated and got loads of fruit. With 75 varieties selected to grow this year, think of what would be involved if all were started in just gallon pots when I want 4 or 6 of each. Whole works is in a 30x63 cold frame with 4-packs and 6-packs.
The smaller a plant is, the less root shock. One Paquebot Roma tricot was set out on 5 May and produced 144 fruit before wearing out and dying in mid-September. There was no damaged root system to be replaced.
Martin
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Post by Deleted on Mar 30, 2015 15:27:07 GMT
I am in zone 5. Our normal last frost date is May 10th, but last year we had frost on May 16 and 17th. I usually start my seeds indoors in mid March, but last year they got very leggy before I could put them out. So I decided I will either start them the first of April or direct sow right in the garden in May. I need to decide this week, what I want to do. I am in zone 5 also. I can't start the seeds early this year either. My father, who was an avid gardener his whole life always started his on April 1st for that very reason. He said they got too leggy and didn't do well. I an anxious to start mine, but will wait to see what happens with this weather next week.
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