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Post by Deleted on Mar 30, 2015 13:56:07 GMT
I normally plant my potatoes when the dandelions start blooming, generally end of May or first part of June. Our last frost is supposedly May 31, but can happen anytime. Anyway, we have been having an alarmingly warm, dry spring. Dandelions are blooming, tulips are up, rhubarb and aspargus are starting to come up, etc. You think I should plant my taters now or wait a bit and see? I usually plant russet types if that helps any and am in zone 4 in central Montana. LOL....
I hope to be harvesting some potatoes around the middle of June. We shall see...
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Post by paquebot on Mar 30, 2015 15:20:46 GMT
Doesn't matter where one is in the lower 48 now for planting potatoes. More important is depth of planting. I used to dig 8" deep trenches in the fall and add a couple inches of compost. By spring, they would be about 4" deep. All that was needed about this time was a day or two between rain or snow and plant the seed pieces. Backfilled the trenches and 4" above that. Coming from 8" deep, takes over a month to come up. By then, they are safe from frosts. Early varieties such as Red Norland would be on the kitchen table by mid-June and totally done by mid-July.
Martin
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Post by snoozy on Mar 30, 2015 15:23:16 GMT
When I hill up the plants, how much greenery should I leave showing above the straw/soil?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 30, 2015 18:57:05 GMT
We planted our tators about 2 weeks ago. We planted Yukon Gold and Kennebec. We also planted all of the Red Pontiac left over from last year's garden. They were sprouting nicely. They are kind of an experiment for us. We just want to see how good they will do.
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Post by paquebot on Mar 31, 2015 2:39:59 GMT
When I hill up the plants, how much greenery should I leave showing above the straw/soil? Depends upon how deep they were planted. There is no need for more than an 8" tuber production zone. If only planted 2" deep, then one may continue hilling until at least 6" of soil is above grade. Hilling can begin as soon as green appears. That is covered with several inches and it will grow up through it. Repeat again until the 8" depth is obtained. If the growth is about 4" or more, hilling will no longer have any benefit since the production portion will never get any longer. F.Y.I Covering a young growing plant does not harm it in any way. In fact, that is how one protects early planting if they are up and frost is expected. Martin |
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Post by Awnry Abe on Mar 31, 2015 3:13:22 GMT
I am an epic fail at growing potatoes, Dad made it look easy. This year's attempt is 'potato towers'. I won't hijack the thread with what is really a 'families' post. Let's just say DW and I grew together this spring, even if the tower fell.
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Post by paquebot on Mar 31, 2015 6:33:01 GMT
I was born into potatoes. Programmed to walk the field with a tin can with a bit of kerosene to pick bugs when I was 4. Maternal grandfather died hilling potatoes and fell between the rows so as to not damage the plants. (It's in his obituary.) I took a long break when it really was cheaper to buy them. Now growing steady since 1990 and had 15 varieties last year. Probably eliminate at least one this year or just grow a few of certain varieties.
Martin
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Post by smokey on Mar 31, 2015 12:13:00 GMT
I would be happy if (someday) my obituary says something similar, I believe I would have liked your grandfather Martin.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 31, 2015 12:23:20 GMT
When I hill up the plants, how much greenery should I leave showing above the straw/soil? At least half the plant. Ask me how I know... |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 31, 2015 12:25:02 GMT
I was born into potatoes. Programmed to walk the field with a tin can with a bit of kerosene to pick bugs when I was 4. Maternal grandfather died hilling potatoes and fell between the rows so as to not damage the plants. (It's in his obituary.) I took a long break when it really was cheaper to buy them. Now growing steady since 1990 and had 15 varieties last year. Probably eliminate at least one this year or just grow a few of certain varieties. Martin hmmm... there really is some genetic link with the gardening, methinks. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 31, 2015 12:28:04 GMT
I put mine in two weekends ago (SW OH). I got some seed potatoes, but also just planted some from my pantry that had sprouted. I'm cheap like that (they are also really yummy fingerlings). We'll see what happens.
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Post by Callie on Mar 31, 2015 19:10:58 GMT
Alright, you southerners....not fair posting about how far along your gardens are.....
I don't blame you and if I lived down south, I'd probably be doing it too....but since I'm not. PLEASE..just stop! In fact, let's make it against the rules to post pictures of your gardens until June.
As for planting potatoes 2 months early...I'd not try it. Actually, I might, but I'd be sorry.
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Post by bowdonkey on Apr 1, 2015 20:54:07 GMT
I still have permafrost 2" down. But warm weather is here, finally.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2015 2:21:19 GMT
We were going to get the spuds in on the traditional St Patrick's Day, but it didn't happen.
Hope to get SOMETHING in the ground this weekend. Seems every time we plan to plant, the weather has other plans afoot.
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Post by paquebot on Apr 3, 2015 3:12:40 GMT
I still have permafrost 2" down. But warm weather is here, finally. You can plant on top of that as long as there's about an inch of thawed soil between that and the seed piece. As long as that piece does not freeze, it will remain alive. Martin |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2015 4:17:14 GMT
The last 3 years, we have just put the taters on top of the ground and covered them with rotting hay about 8 inches deep. They grow great and are super easy to harvest.
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Post by smokey on Apr 7, 2015 0:10:53 GMT
Finally got the potatoes in the ground this afternoon.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2015 2:16:39 GMT
If the other plants think it's okay to come out, a tuber won't be nearly as endangered. Worst thing is the leaves get a frost and it starts over again. I doubt your ground will freeze now. I'd plant. I'm only doing a small row this year.
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