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Post by hermitjohn on May 10, 2015 0:05:59 GMT
I was just curious. Modern vehicles arent shade tree friendly, so thought maybe somebody that doesnt drive whole lot might go retro. Though maybe with disk brake conversion and gearing that allows one to keep up with traffic.
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Post by Deleted on May 10, 2015 0:16:06 GMT
Well, my vehicles all have a pre-1960 driver.  Srsly, though, I see your point. There are, however, some '60's and even 70's vehicles that are serviceable by the average shade tree mechanic who has a copy of the Hayne's manual for the vehicle. We're still hanging on to an old '80's CJ8. When we get the time (ha!) we're going to drop a new-to-it engine in - after we mend the frame. Anything that's still has a carburettor is okay in my book. Especially a 1965 Mustang.  |
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Post by hermitjohn on May 10, 2015 0:52:35 GMT
I was thinking pre-emissions era vehicles. Though most 60s and some early 70s vehicles have no more than PCV valve added, which actually is good thing to have, I would definitely try to add pcv system to older engine that didnt have one. But states that want all emissions in pristine condition sort of rules out some of the factory rube goldberg emissions stuff on 70s era federal or 60s era California. Parts simply arent available anymore. Even up into computer control era, things changed so fast that parts for earlier computer cars just as hard to get.
Now I would have no problem if somebody wanted to put say a straight six out of 60s, 70s, 80s vehicle along with 90s 5spd into older vehicle. Though it would be illegal in California and other super strict states, they require emissions in any vehicle to match the newer of either the vehicle or the engine. And you have to jump lot hoops to get an engine transplant ok'd. Be challenge tracking down a 60s era block to use to build transplant engine, just to please emissions people, though the 70s or 80s or in some cases 90s version is identical except for serial numbers and lot easier to find.
Both my licensed 80s vehicles are non-computer carb and neither were the engine that my vehicles came from factory with. So i could have problems if emissions inspections ever come to my state. I have no problem with carburetors. Though I have noticed them going up in price as we get farther and farther from pre-computer carb era. Even more popular carb cores bring $50+ on ebay and many of them are in pretty rough condition. At this point if it gets to where I cant repair carbs I have or buy good cores for sane money, I would have to convert to aftermarket Weber or Holly carb and go through painful process of re-jetting them for my particular engines.
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Post by Deleted on May 10, 2015 0:55:21 GMT
Not pre-1960, but I'm seriously considering rebuilding a '77 International for the reasons you listed. I'd almost prefer a '65-66 Suburban, but they are harder to find. Later this year, I'll probably be helping a friend get his 1950s Chevy pickup back on the road.
The older stuff is easier to work on, harder to find parts for. It is a tradeoff, and what works for one person might not for another.
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Post by Billie on May 10, 2015 2:14:44 GMT
We have two older Mustangs, a 1965 and a 1969. Have had the '69 for over 34 years and the '65 for about 32 years. Bill does most of the work on both of them himself. No plans to get rid of them either.
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Post by Deleted on May 10, 2015 13:47:55 GMT
I have had a '52 Chevy pickup since 1970. Still has original engine. I updated the trans to an overdrive and open driveline rear axle for better cruising speed. I bought a new carb from Napa 6 years ago. Still runs when I need it, although we have the HHR for main vehicle. I have a '28 Ford track roadster with an Iron Duke 2.5 and auto trans out of a '90 S-10. Changed to a carb and all computer removed. I am just finishing up another '52 pickup, all S-10 running gear, new box tube frame. Getting painted right now....James
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Post by Deleted on May 10, 2015 17:10:42 GMT
Nick understands the black magic of carbs, and I am grateful for that. Never thought I'd see the day when folks would have to pay big money for a Carter BBD core. <g>
Might be a good idea to keep a couple on hand. They have no rubber parts to burn out with ethanol, and should the day come when we have to run straight ethanol, well, there ya go.
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Post by hermitjohn on May 10, 2015 18:44:00 GMT
Nick understands the black magic of carbs, and I am grateful for that. Never thought I'd see the day when folks would have to pay big money for a Carter BBD core. <g> Might be a good idea to keep a couple on hand. They have no rubber parts to burn out with ethanol, and should the day come when we have to run straight ethanol, well, there ya go. I think weakness on the non-electronic 2bbl BBD is that the throttle plate shaft tends to develop lot slop. They eventually have to have the holes in base sleeved so there isnt an air leak there. I had one on old 70s Dodge pickup with a 318. I've always had good luck with Weber carbs. When the electronic Hitachi carb and its bushel basket of black spaghetti quit on Festiva, I replaced it with an aftermarket Weber I saved from old VW I used to have. No more problems and an engine compartment as simple as 50s or 60s car, though getting proper kit for Weber not always easiest thing. Mine needs an unusual small size bowl gasket. I finally found kit for some late 70s Chevette that had all right parts at far cheaper price than official Weber kits. When the one barrel Carter YFA carb on Ford 300 in pickup goes (float tends to stick on one on F250 though I have had it apart several times), I have a high quality adapter to use a 2bbl Motorcraft 2100/2150 carb (I have one good one), though the Jeep people have run up price on those to use on their AMC 258. So probably eventually have to go to Weber 38/38 carb and jet it for the 300. You can still buy brand new aftermarket Weber 38 carb though price is far higher than it used to be. I tend to prefer Weber to Holley though could use new Holley 2300 though it would have to be jetted for my engine too. |
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Post by Deleted on May 10, 2015 22:07:12 GMT
The Carter YF was in my Mustang. I'm not a Connoisseur of Carbs, but Nick does like the Weber products. I've heard many a cuss word over Rochester and Holley.
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Post by hermitjohn on May 11, 2015 18:23:39 GMT
I take it you have either Ford 170 or 200 six in your mustang. The YF's were 70s and early 80s 200-6 and 250-6. The 60s stuff had own odd carb designed to work with an odd distributor like Ford used on 40s and 50s era straight sixes. Good for you. The 200 was pretty good engine. I hate seeing Falons, Mustangs, and Broncos get automatically converted to V8. And you can adapt a five speed from 90s mustang to a 200. You can even get a more modern head for 200. Some guy imports them from Australia where 200-6 was used far longer than here.
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Post by hermitjohn on May 11, 2015 18:26:41 GMT
Oh and on Weber, generic new one can be royal pain to get properly jetted, but once thats done, you rarely have to mess with them, except every few years put kit in to refresh them.
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Post by Deleted on May 12, 2015 0:05:42 GMT
The newer stuff is not so bad to work on. Basic Scan tools have come down in cost and give good info, also anything 10 yrs old will have a hundred you-tube videos on said repair.
You can't beat the fuel mileage and comforts of newer cars. Winter starting on a fuel injected car is nice!
I have 2 carb cars, and 4 FI all are fairly equal in repair difficulty, IMHO. The main thing with OBD2 cars is most people over think the repair. You need to learn why the car set a code, and not to throw parts at it.
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Post by hermitjohn on May 12, 2015 0:39:06 GMT
The newer stuff is not so bad to work on. Basic Scan tools have come down in cost and give good info, also anything 10 yrs old will have a hundred you-tube videos on said repair. You can't beat the fuel mileage and comforts of newer cars. Winter starting on a fuel injected car is nice! I have 2 carb cars, and 4 FI all are fairly equal in repair difficulty, IMHO. The main thing with OBD2 cars is most people over think the repair. You need to learn why the car set a code, and not to throw parts at it. If carb and ignition are in good shape, carb cars are no problem in winter. Modern stuff has LOT more parts to think about. And endless $50 sensors. And you dont put a kit in modern stuff, you replace parts. Engines lot more complex with at least two cams and variable valve timing and other wonders. Single cam OHV engine with a carb lot more pleasant. Please note I am thinking straight six or inline four with only accessory being maybe a power steering pump. The old engineers motto, Keep It Simple Stupid! i remember some carb V8 cars that were as big pain to work on as modern ones, with hidden spark plugs that required all sorts of unpleasantness to replace, and all kinds rube goldberg emissions stuff and fifteen V-belts. At least back then you could delete the emissions stuff and make the thing work. Now its all tied together. Unless you want to do an aftermarket computer control system where you roll your own, you have to work with what the factory system expects to be there. Also very few modern cars/trucks offer manual transmission. I do not like green eggs and automatics, Sam I am.... Modern car companies obviously dont want people like me for a customer. Cause they sure dont design anything I want to drive. Ugly overpriced super complicated cars. Trucks designed to be substitute cars rather than work truck. Everything with an automatic and designed for 90mph. As for gas mileage. Unless you get a diesel, gas mileage on pickups is not any better than it used to be. Some of cars get amazing mileage considering their weight penalty. However my Festiva gets 45mpg with a non-computer aftermarket Weber carb and no overdrive (mine has the stupid 4spd). So not everything mileagewise is electronics, lot of it is design, light weight and an efficient engine. |
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Post by jupiter on May 12, 2015 18:45:03 GMT
If we ever find a pre 1960 Ford truck, we are going to buy it. My grandpa had one & I loved that truck!
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Post by hermitjohn on May 12, 2015 20:49:07 GMT
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Post by jupiter on May 13, 2015 1:55:21 GMT
Thank you! We aren't actively looking right now, but if one comes along at the right price....(: |
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Post by jd4020 on May 18, 2015 23:49:53 GMT
I have a 1960 (or 61) International Scout that was one of my parents first vehicles. It has slide windows. I remember my sister and I sacking out in the back while Dad & Mom watched the movie at the local drive-in theater. Dad gave it to me to drive when I was in high school. Love, love, loved it. It's now out behind our corn crib, the engine in pieces. I would love to get it running again, but it would take a lot. Dh has a 1970 Chevy pick-up thet he bought at an auction a few years ago. It had only 51,000 miles on her and the original wooden bed. He plans to give her a new coat of paint. I love telling those telemarketers who always try to get us to re-new the warranty on the 2002 Bonneville (which we haven't had for 10 years now) thet I drive the 1970 pick-up truck. And would they like to warranty that? After a brief silence, they usually tell me to have a nice day. Shoot, our newest vehicle is a 2008 Chevy pick-up diesel with 300,000 miles. |
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Post by hermitjohn on May 19, 2015 5:08:08 GMT
I remember the early Scouts. Weakness on them was rear axle if I remember correctly. Werent all the real early ones 4 cyl (half of one of their V8)? They were designed to compete with Jeep Universal (CJ5). I think they used the same 3spd tranny as the jeeps of that era only with different bellhousing? They made adapters to put just about any engine into a jeep, even Ford Lima OHC 2.3L 4cyl (Pinto engine). So wouldnt be hard with right adapter to put cheap junkyard engineinto Scout until you rebuilt the original?? Sure the IHC forums could tell you for sure. Can find used adapters to put Chevy engine (V8/straight6/153 cube four cylinder)into jeep for very cheap. Later Pontiac (2.5L/150cube inch) and Chevy (2L) four cylinders had different bolt patterns.
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