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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2015 14:59:13 GMT
And didn't have to crawl around in the gravel!
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Post by copperkid3 on Jun 14, 2015 16:53:58 GMT
Well done.
Innovative....
Creative....
And it's what ANY homesteader would do, (if they had thought of it) to keep from getting claustrophobic or dirty!!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2015 18:31:29 GMT
Well done. Innovative.... Creative.... And it's what ANY homesteader would do, (if they had thought of it) to keep from getting claustrophobic or dirty!! Or maybe old joints just don't like crawling around!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2015 18:33:53 GMT
There was a guy lived a few miles from me that did that with his skid steer. While in the up position, a hydraulic hose burst and the bucket and boom killed him. The way you did it is great, just be sure to have a sleeve or safety of some sort on the hydraulic cylinder to prevent it from loosing pressure and crushing you. I didn't have to get under it hardly at all. I used the old wire to pull through the new. Stood outside and cut the old wire and taped on the new wire and just worked it through.
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Post by Rustaholic on Jun 15, 2015 1:04:30 GMT
I just ran all new wires in a much larger flat bed trailer. There needs to be no climbing under it because there is no bed on it.
It also has black water plastic tubing as conduit so it was so easy to tie the new wire on and pull it through with the old wire. My trailer has a half frame that goes back just past the second axle. There is a hinge there and the top frame is 102" wide and 18' long. The top frame tilts. The trailer has a lot of steel cross members and just as it is it is great for stacking full of pallets. I have 16 feet long planks I can throw on it to drive a vehicle on.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 17, 2015 3:03:11 GMT
After having a tractor lose hydraulic pressure whilst I was butchering a steer hanging from the forks, I don't think I'd ever do it that way. For jobs like that, first preference goes to the chain hoist in the welding shop; if the trailer or trailer-to-be is too long, we'll set it up on metal sawhorses (welded up of scrap structural steel).
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Post by Maura on Jun 17, 2015 18:02:02 GMT
When my uncle put up his double wide, he first put down a concrete pad. This way, when he had to do work under the trailers he just used a mechanic’s skid.
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Post by Rustaholic on Jun 17, 2015 19:40:28 GMT
After having a tractor lose hydraulic pressure whilst I was butchering a steer hanging from the forks, I don't think I'd ever do it that way. For jobs like that, first preference goes to the chain hoist in the welding shop; if the trailer or trailer-to-be is too long, we'll set it up on metal sawhorses (welded up of scrap structural steel). I once brought home a box trailer that a company next to where I was working filled up with scrap wood. When I opened the rear doors it was such a jumbled mess I knew it would take us hours to empty it. I had a 12 Volt electric winch in my truck and some chains so I looked further and found a nice snatch block. laying not far away was a pile of 22 feet long cedar poles so I used a smaller chain to lash them together at the top so they could be stood up as a very tall tripod. I hung the snatch block up there with the lead from the winch threaded through it and then stood up my tripod over the tongue of the trailer.
I put the rear hitch of the truck at a 90 degree angle from the trailer, hooked the winch to the trailer and my hitch then pulled the whole trailer off the ground. It was easy to unload. Letting it down it would have hit the truck if the truck was straight in front of it.The load below it made it go even further forward but the truck was well out of the way and the winch line back to the truck helped keep the tripod from tipping. My sweet wife just stood there amazed. She was going to help me pull all of that wood out of the trailer. That same tripod would be a safer way to work on that trailer. A good block and tackle is easier to tie off safely. I have several different sizes of block and tackle sets.
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