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Post by hermitjohn on Jun 30, 2015 8:35:02 GMT
Ok, the Carter YFA on my old Ford F250 300-6 needs replaced. Its gotten to point where putting kit in it no longer worth the bother. Probably a professional carb guy with flow bench and ability to put new bushings on shafts, etc, could bring it back to life, but they dont exist anymore. Like looking for a tv repairman with selection of replacement vacuum tubes in back room....
Even I know better than to buy one of the expensive "factory" rebuilt carbs at parts store. Anymore they are just cores they send to Timbuctu and hire 10 year old at 50cents a day to throw a kit in them and spray paint them. They never see a flow bench to be tested. You just play the warranty game until you get a good one. Even Autozone wants $200 for their cheapest YFA now.
There are actually new Chinese knockoff YFA but nobody says anything positive about them. The Chinese apparently didnt pay super close attention to important small details. And they go for $150 on ebay.
Ebay core carbs that look like they been buried in back yard for 30 years start at around $40. Carbs that look nice are priced like parts store carb (and higher) only without any warranty.
I can use an adapter and put on a brand new aftermarket Weber 38/38 or Holley 2300. Then spend time getting them properly re-jetted. The Jeep people were hot on using Ford 2100/2150 carbs but they have driven price of those to the moon and cleaned out whatever was left of them in junkyards, not that there is lot carb era parts of any kind in junkyards anymore. Good ones with the 1.08 venturi bring crazy money cause apparently even an idiot can get them to work well on Jeep 258. The ones with bigger venturi's used on 351 and up engines are cheaper but too much carb for an unmodified 300. Plus you cant easily find replacement jets for Autolite/Motorcraft carbs so they will be jetted way too rich.
I have couple old spare YFA I know nothing about that I picked up along the way. I guess cheapest way to go is to gamble putting kit in best looking of them. Might get lucky. Then if that doesnt work, grit my teeth and buy a NEW Weber 38/38 and an adapter. At least its factory NEW. And I found lot info rejetting/tuning them on one Jeep forum. If they can preform well on AMC/Jeep 258 straight six, should work ok on a Ford 300 straight six. I've always had good luck with the smaller Webers on 4cyl engines, Weber paid lot attention to detail in their design.
But I am open to other suggestions.....
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Post by hermitjohn on Jun 30, 2015 10:59:59 GMT
Ok, I either got great bargain or wasted $70. Found a Motorcraft 2150 with 1.08 venturi on ebay. Its a rebuild and clean with bit minor surface rust here and there from setting on some shelf for decades. So imagine it could need fresh kit. The only weird thing is that its for 1976 F600 with a 330 engine. So goodness only knows how its jetted. Apparently the 330 was an "FT" engine related to the old FE truck engines from the 60s. Couldnt prove it by me.
So assume thats why the 'low' price. Cause if it was off a 302 in that condition it would be selling at least twice the price. Wouldnt believe some of 'rusted lump' junk carbs I saw listed on ebay that I dont think even a pro could bring back to life and they were wanting nearly as much money.
Will be interesting. Never ran a 300 with a two barrel carb before. Some on Fordsix forum say even using the two into one adapter (bottleneck), its an improvement over the YFA one barrel, but then lot people dont know how to adjust a YFA. I never had a problem with one in good shape, just you cant find good ones for reasonable price anymore. I do know the MC2100/MC2150 had to be about the simplest to rebuild carb I've ever seen (close to idiotproof of any carb out there). And the kits are cheaper than those for the YFA.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2015 14:46:06 GMT
I tell ya, I couldn't believe the prices of single barrel carbs the last time that I looked at them. Anything decent is bringing handsome amounts.
The life lesson that I've learned:
Years ago, you couldn't give away a single barrel carb from a straight six. I recall the local yard selling them for $2 to $5 each, you pull. I remember asking my friends if those parts would be worth something someday, and against what I thought, down deep, they all said "No one will ever want those."
I remember a friend of mine bought 3 monster sized boxes of used carbs for $1. Of course, there weren't any great carbs in there, at least at the time, like four barrel race carbs. He wound up leaving all of them.
Looking back, I should have listened to my gut. Most of those cores are in great demand these days. I could have a nice stack of cash in my wallet.
This very lesson has haunted me for years, not with just carbs, but with many things that I saw value in, but they were near worthless at the time. I often think of the stack of 20 US WWII bayonets that sold for $21 at an auction. That same stack could easily be worth $2,000 today.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2015 14:48:57 GMT
Anyone remember Pontiac Rally II rims??
We used to trip over them at junk yards. Could have been bought for $20 a set, and people would have laughed at you for paying that price, even for a near spotless set.
Have you all priced Ralley II's lately???
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Post by hermitjohn on Jul 15, 2015 18:25:46 GMT
Its just one Rip Van Winkle moment after another anymore, for me. I did get the MC2150 carb and it looks all nice, clean, and shiny, like one you would get off the parts store shelf.
Unfortunately real Ozarks summer has made an appearance with heat index over 100, so I havent felt like messing with anything that doesnt need immediate attention.
The truck is running ok for what it needs to do around the place. So any changes can wait. I also have fittings for the water separator filter unit on way.... another slow boat from China cause you cant touch their prices for same made in China stainless/brass fittings sold locally. I get that water separator unit installed and should prevent problems of water and schmutz getting into the carb. Was annoying that the actual filter element came unglued in current filter letting stuff through. This big screw on filter is whole new ballgame. Its really sold for gas inboard boat engines. One guy said one of these let him get home with tank of really bad gas, though he had to unscrew it and dump it couple or three times. Thats what I need on engines around the place that I only use rarely. Especially with the alcohol gasoline.
I remember people going crazy over fancy wheels, and further back over hubcaps. I never saw point. I always found plain old stamped steel wheels perfectly servicable. Get set cheap universal moon hubcaps if you just gotta have hubcaps. Really hate seeing all current wheels being some aluminum alloy. Not as strong and whole lot more expensive. And dont get me started with the super low profile tires. Those make no sense whatsoever.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2015 20:17:51 GMT
Seems like my life is filled with Rip Van Winkle realizations.
Very well said, John.
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Post by Rustaholic on Jul 20, 2015 22:25:34 GMT
I never even thought about saving the carb when I scrapped out my old F-150.
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Post by hermitjohn on Jul 20, 2015 22:52:44 GMT
I wouldnt throw away any rebuildable carburetor at this point in time. Even the not so rebuildables could furnish parts for others. Though really need a pro to sleeve shaft for throttle plates, along with a new or good shaft. Cause thats what really destroys a carb, air leak around the throttle plate shaft. A kit wont solve that, though a blob of epoxy putty will seal leak on outer end, yet let shaft rotate. Possibly on other exit of shaft also though betting it wouldnt hold up long term. There really isnt any lubrication.
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Post by Rustaholic on Jul 21, 2015 0:41:09 GMT
I will have to go out to my shop and check out that carburator I was just given with a load of scrap. Well
I have it right here in my hand but I still don't know what it is other than some old one barrel carburetor.
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Post by Rustaholic on Jul 21, 2015 1:12:34 GMT
Well I Googled your Carter YFA and the one I have is nothing like that. I do remember that as what I have had I do not know how many of them.
With a good light I found my answer. The one I have is a GM Rochester. I have a very old vertical compressor that originally was flat belt driven. I am going to rebuild it as an engine. The compressor is about 350 pounds with it's large flat belt pulley and on the other side is an even larger flywheel. Maybe I will give it this carburetor. That would look cool.
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Post by beowoulf90 on Jul 31, 2015 12:03:51 GMT
I never even thought about saving the carb when I scrapped out my old F-150. Same here. I never gave it a thought to save the Carb when I scrapped the 89 F250 with a 300 straight 6, utility body, dual tanks, ladder rack etc. The thing ran like a charm, but kept catching fire due to an electrical short. I spent $1000 to fix it the first time, but refused to fix it after it burnt the second time.. That truck was a beast in that it would haul anything and you wouldn't notice the weight. The only problem was it got 9 MPG loaded or empty...
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Post by Rustaholic on Aug 1, 2015 22:28:19 GMT
I never even thought about saving the carb when I scrapped out my old F-150. Same here. I never gave it a thought to save the Carb when I scrapped the 89 F250 with a 300 straight 6, utility body, dual tanks, ladder rack etc. The thing ran like a charm, but kept catching fire due to an electrical short. I spent $1000 to fix it the first time, but refused to fix it after it burnt the second time.. That truck was a beast in that it would haul anything and you wouldn't notice the weight. The only problem was it got 9 MPG loaded or empty... I would have saved the utility body and ladder racks.
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Post by hermitjohn on Aug 2, 2015 13:28:23 GMT
I never even thought about saving the carb when I scrapped out my old F-150. Same here. I never gave it a thought to save the Carb when I scrapped the 89 F250 with a 300 straight 6, utility body, dual tanks, ladder rack etc. The thing ran like a charm, but kept catching fire due to an electrical short. I spent $1000 to fix it the first time, but refused to fix it after it burnt the second time.. That truck was a beast in that it would haul anything and you wouldn't notice the weight. The only problem was it got 9 MPG loaded or empty... Think 87 and up were fuel injected, so unless you converted it to carb.... My 1984 4wd F250 has like a 1977 engine and 4spd T19 transmission. Gets 12 to 13 mpg at 55-60mph. Seems very reasonable considering its weight, wind resistance, and all the extra 4wd parts. I assume you either drove yours faster or had an automatic or both. Non computer carb engine easy to wire up independent of existing wiring harness. No worse rewiring one than it is to rewire some antique derelict car you are restoring. Computerized vehicles not so easy. The factory wiring on my old F250 is an ongoing battle. Previous owners had already jerry rigged it a lot. When something goes, if its important, I just wire around it. Enough wire, pocket of generic Bosch relays, and some inline fuses, and you can wire darn near anything. If I were going to seriously use this truck daily, probably remove all factory wiring and jerry rigged wiring, and rewire the whole thing fresh. But as a firewood truck and occasional hauler, the battle continues just enough repair to keep it functional and relatively safe.
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Post by beowoulf90 on Aug 3, 2015 12:19:57 GMT
Same here. I never gave it a thought to save the Carb when I scrapped the 89 F250 with a 300 straight 6, utility body, dual tanks, ladder rack etc. The thing ran like a charm, but kept catching fire due to an electrical short. I spent $1000 to fix it the first time, but refused to fix it after it burnt the second time.. That truck was a beast in that it would haul anything and you wouldn't notice the weight. The only problem was it got 9 MPG loaded or empty... I would have saved the utility body and ladder racks.Sold them and the front clip. No one wanted the motor or the cab, so it went to scrap..
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Post by hermitjohn on Aug 3, 2015 17:26:40 GMT
That is just sad to scrap a good 300-6. I very much prefer the big straight six over any small V8, even in a car. When they show up here on craigslist, they dont last long unless seller has some grandiose idea of price. One with good compression here would be snapped up instantly at $200, meaning you could probably get more if you are patient. Course this isnt a rust area so lot old Ford pickups on the road.
Any of the fuel injected versions can easily be converted to carb, though you need a carb intake manifold which are getting little rarer. Bolt holes same to bolt on carb manifold. Also takes good half day to unbolt all the fuelie stuff. And to find a serpentine belt that fits after removing all the extra stuff, serpentine belts dont necessarily come in every size possible like v-belts. They want to sell them based on application rather than length and width.
The fuelie version didnt have the hole for a mechanical pump. The bump is still on the cam, so if you are determined, you can cut a hole, though lot easier to use a low pressure electric pump. if you go electric, carry a spare, modern electric fuel pumps for carburetor tend to be low quality.
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Post by hermitjohn on Aug 24, 2015 14:17:21 GMT
Got the water separator installed yesterday. Today tried starting truck. Crank, crank, crank, prime, prime, prime.... It would start on the prime but immediately died.
Finally unscrewed filter from the head (it looks like a screw on oil filter) thinking maybe I had to manually fill filter with gas. Ah guy I bought it from had just screwed on new filter to the head without removing the plastic wrapper. Well the outer part of the wrapper fell away at some point. But not the plastic sandwiched between the filter and the head. Removed that and truck started right up.
Like said before this should be no brainer for vehicles and gasoline tractors not used very often. Namebrand replacement screw on filters around $10, give or take couple bucks. About what a new OEM fuel injection filter costs. Diesel tractors and some trucks have these, I just didnt know they were available for gasoline engines.
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Post by hermitjohn on Sept 6, 2015 19:35:43 GMT
The YFA is causing trouble again.
Its been hot this week so I still havent hunted up the adapter to put the MC2150 carb on the 300-6. But thinking if I ever get chance to get a Weber 38-38 carb (hopefully a European made one) reasonable, would really like to try it, since they are still being made/sold brand new. Out of Spain I think though there is a Chinese clone version (Weber patent ran out I think) which may or may not be ok, depending on buyers personal prejudices/preferences.
The good Carter rebuilt YFA's are getting rare, good rebuildable cores even more rare, and rebuilt ones bring nearly as much as a new Weber. There really arent any other one barrel carbs, other than YFA, that are big enough for a 300-6. Unless you want to try rejetting one... Might be a rare Rochester for the old Chevy 292 straight six or even earlier GMC 302 straight six, but think even most of them used the YA or YFA. The Jeep people are eating up the MC2100 and MC2150 carbs for their 258 engines. Just mostly see the subpar chinese knockoff versions of YFA on ebay anymore. I dont know if they can be rebuilt properly or not, to match the real Carter YFA. I think mechanically they are ok, but use cheap gaskets/seals and maybe dont even come with one necessary seal installed, so have leakage problems according to people that have bought them.
I've always had really good luck with the Webers, especially the aftermarket ones being super reliable. I replaced the ridiculously expensive whizbang Hitachi electronic computer carb on my Festiva several years ago with an old aftermarket Weber I had used on a non-computer VW I used to own. Reliable as all get out and just as good mileage. Had to rebuild it once and it was easy to do though the official Weber kits tend to be kinda pricey and never seem to have the smaller bowl gasket this carb needs. I got a kit for carb on '79 Chevette and it had all the parts necessary including correct size bowl gasket, (well not super sure, it was either 78 or 79 Chevette). Whichever year used the Weber clone carb on it. All the American car companies still around in 1970s, at one time or another used a Weber clone (made under license) on their four cylinder cars.
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Post by hermitjohn on Sept 9, 2015 18:27:18 GMT
STill havent went pulling boxes out of storage looking for that adapter to try the 2bbl carb. But since I do need the pickup at times, I pulled the YFA carb off, took it apart yet again, and wouldnt you know, there is some sediment in bottom of float bowl. Nothing but gas should get through this new big water separator filter. Must got in there on short drive bringing truck up from field before I installed the new filter. Course when I put carb back on, it did start right up and run good.... until it started overflowing and flooded out the engine. This carb just loves doing that making me whack it on its side to unstick the float, needle valve, or whatever causes this. It can go long time or short time before doing this, one never knows when it will happen. I have rebuilt this particular carb with new kits several times since I owned it and never solves this problem. I have an old electronic controlled YFA around here someplace and nobody wants them. Maybe try swapping float and needle valve assembly out of it. Just about gotta be the float hanging up somehow before it can get high enough to close the needle valve... but I've looked when its apart and cant see what it would hang up on.
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Post by hermitjohn on Sept 9, 2015 19:34:37 GMT
Inspiration. Found the adapter without moving too much stuff in storage. Didnt find bolts that came with it, nor the box it came in, but thats relatively minor problem. However the MC2150 will need a phenolic spacer, the bolt pattern is correct, but be air leaks without a spacer. I imagine whoever designed this did so for a Holley 2300 or possibly the older MC2100. Probably the Holley 2300 though! Both of them have been around since at least late 1950s when designs were lot simpler and cleaner. I remember them having rather flat smooth base. At least the early ones...
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Post by hermitjohn on Sept 9, 2015 20:39:44 GMT
Google is very helpful. I found near perfect one inch phenolic spacer for... $38! I'd guess some guy probably makes them in low volume, and does very nice job, doesnt try to skimp on material like the big boys. I then found a forum where the Jeep people have this same problem when putting a MC2150 on their engines. One guy suggested he had success with Fel-Pro 60529 spacer, made for OEM Ford applications in 1980s that still used some variation of MC2150 carb. Its not as nice a quality, and only half inch, but looks like it will serve the purpose at only $13 shipped. Thats cheapest price I found. Some want more than twice that much for same FelPro item. If I had to give that much, I would buy the $38 one. Also ordered set carb studs for $4.50. Having tried to use regular bolts in past for carbs, usually worth buying the studs. Some carbs dont even have room enough to insert a regular bolt.
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Post by hermitjohn on Sept 17, 2015 22:06:08 GMT
Got the spacer in mail today and made some thin gaskets to put on either side of it. Installed adapter, then the MC2150 carb without connecting choke or throttle cable since I have to reroute them. Just wanted to see if engine would run halfway decent with this carb and adapter setup before I went further. Cable will need to be replaced. Its short and old and brittle plastic, not going to change direction without breaking.
So gave it shot of starting fluid couple times and voila, engine continued running. Got a shrill little whistle sound that went away when I wiggled carb so think two bolts holding adapter to manifold need tightening. But it would idle down and I could adjust idle mixture. Also seemed to have plenty umph when I opened throttle, but that wont really be known for sure until I finish hooking things up and drive it.
Be interesting whether I get the same fuel mileage as I did with the one barrel. I got 12mpg with it. Which is pretty good if you remember this i a 6000 pound 4wd three quarter ton truck. There are people with half ton pickups or full size Broncos, that dont do better than 14mpg. Heck my little 4wd Ranger never did better than 14mpg with the rebuilt 2.8L and a 5spd. That was just pathetic. I shoehorned that 300-6 into it with a 3 spd, and mileage went up to 18mpg. Would of topped 20mpg if it had an overdrive.
This two into one adapter setup is still sort of half-arsed way of adapting a non-original carburetor. But I wasnt going to spend $300 on one of the aftermarket Offenhauser or Clifford manifolds. This should work as well as the one barrel did when it was working correctly. And its a simpler design carburetor.
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Post by hermitjohn on Sept 18, 2015 23:39:38 GMT
Finally got outside this afternoon. Went to take off the existing throttle cable and noticed years ago when I put the 300-6 in this truck to replace a worn out 460, that I had used the 460 throttle cable and made my homemade bracket adjustable since the cable end wasnt adjustable. Just unbolted top of the bracket, got bit of strap iron drilled two holes and reoriented direction. Cable was just able to bend enough without breaking or binding. Now have drivable truck, though like to get air cleaner on before I take it on hiway to try it out. Need to buy piece brake line and a brass fitting to get manifold heat to the choke.
I got closeout deal on chrome air cleaner ($13 shipped) on Amazon. Rather had 10 incher but the 14 inch one was what was on sale. Next cheapest was like $25 for both pieces (most chrome air cleaners sold top and bottom separately) plus shipping... Its waiting for me to drive to PO. UPS delivered the filter element to end of my driveway today. No rhyme nor reason to what is delivered by UPS/Fedex and what is handed off to USPS. These were really designed for big or high performance engine. Hoping there is space enough under hood for it since adapter/spacer pushes carb up higher than it normally would set. Bottom of air cleaner is recessed so it should work.
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Post by hermitjohn on Sept 20, 2015 21:23:30 GMT
It was really annoying but I finally got the brass fitting that choke tube attached to on the one barrel carb over onto the two barrel. Usually this fitting (or some similar fitting) is included with a rebuilt carb, but not this one. Anyway the threads were bad on the carb so it was very painful process. I didnt have a tap that size/pitch so had to drill out the hole a bit and hope fitting would catch some remaining threads and possibly form some new ones into the pot metal casting. I got real lucky and it did. Hopefully I wont forget and ever try to remove the fitting in future. And hope it never works loose from vibration.
Now just need a new length of brake line to get hot air from manifold heat stove, to the choke. And to pickup the new air cleaner from the P.O. For some reason the 14 inch filter element was delivered by UPS to my driveway, but the air cleaner was dropped off by UPS for delivery by USPS which they couldnt do, cause it wouldnt fit into the clusterbox. So forcing me to drive to the P.O. this coming week before I get the nasty note threatening to send it back if its not immediately picked up. They are supposed to attempt delivery to house if it wont fit in mailbox, but they never have the 25 years I've lived here. And since most rural carriers around here drive a 4wd vehicle, they could easily make it to my house if they tried. But they are on a severe time schedule so dont want to spend time first coming up my county road that they discontinued rural delivery to few years back, then crawling up my driveway in 4wd low. Now I dont blame them if they only have 2wd. That would be beyond call of duty.
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Post by hermitjohn on Sept 23, 2015 21:32:02 GMT
Hot air to choke done. Automagic choke works fine now. New air cleaner on. Truck starts and runs. Gotta get couple cans gas to put in it before I can experiment driving it off the place. Idle is mysteriously bit rough at times, but it doesnt try to die. Its done that at times in past, so maybe not the carb. And could be that adapter. Jetting seems very close to being spot on.
Hey I bought it knowing it had been professionally rebuilt in USA long ago then spent intervening decades on shelf in some parts store. That it might need a new kit put in it. So will see how it drives soon enough. And no idea what power/enrichment valve was installed in it, may not even have a number on it, they include an unspecified generic power valve in rebuild kits. If you want a specific value one, you have to get one for a Holley carb. They interchange with the Motorcraft/Autolite power valves. No leaks so on this carb should only be potential problem with either the accelerator pump or the power valve degrading with age. Accelerator pump seems fine and its not running pig rich like a bad power valve would cause.
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Post by Rustaholic on Sept 24, 2015 1:46:42 GMT
Good for you.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2015 2:01:22 GMT
Hot air to choke done. Automagic choke works fine now. New air cleaner on. Truck starts and runs. Gotta get couple cans gas to put in it before I can experiment driving it off the place. Idle is mysteriously bit rough at times, but it doesnt try to die. Its done that at times in past, so maybe not the carb. And could be that adapter. Jetting seems very close to being spot on. Hey I bought it knowing it had been professionally rebuilt in USA long ago then spent intervening decades on shelf in some parts store. That it might need a new kit put in it. So will see how it drives soon enough. And no idea what power/enrichment valve was installed in it, may not even have a number on it, they include an unspecified generic power valve in rebuild kits. If you want a specific value one, you have to get one for a Holley carb. They interchange with the Motorcraft/Autolite power valves. No leaks so on this carb should only be potential problem with either the accelerator pump or the power valve degrading with age. Accelerator pump seems fine and its not running pig rich like a bad power valve would cause. I just found this thread today, and as I read through it, I was thinking that you were talking about oversized carbs, but if it's working - HUZZAH! I learned to hate Carter's when I had a Jeep CJ. Dang things are black magic, I tell you... Had a Carter YF in my Ponycar, but it was nowhere near the pain in the rear that the BBD was. Nick mentioned that, if you ever save enough box tops and dime to get a Weber, you should consider a 32-36 progressive.
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Post by hermitjohn on Sept 24, 2015 8:19:51 GMT
I learned to hate Carter's when I had a Jeep CJ. Dang things are black magic, I tell you... Had a Carter YF in my Ponycar, but it was nowhere near the pain in the rear that the BBD was. Nick mentioned that, if you ever save enough box tops and dime to get a Weber, you should consider a 32-36 progressive. I have heard of them using the small progressive 32-36 weber on a AMC/Jeep 258 if its rejetted every which way. It was never really intended for that large of an engine. So pretty sure it would be too small for a Ford 300. A weber 38-38 on other hand probably work but the European version new is like $250. Only used ones you see anymore are from Jeep owners that found rejetting too complicated and they still bring a bundle. The Chinese knockoff of the weber is still $180, though better rep than the Chinese YFA. Remember though Ford 300-6 never had a factory 2bbl manifold. You either use a mickey mouse adapter like I did or you buy an Offenhauser or Clifford aftermarket manifold at silly high price. They are made for 4bbl so you still have to use an adapter to put on a 2bbl. Way overkill for a stock 300, they are intended for modified "hotrod" 300. Jeep 258 engines came from factory at different times with either one barrel or two barrel. So not hard to find an inexpensive 2bbl manifold for Jeep, if you have a one barrel currently. And I have nothing against Carter YF or YFA, just mine is apparently not rebuildable anymore and rebuilt ones from parts store are now $200+. Cant find good rebuildable core on ebay anymore either. The other option is a new Chinese knockoff of YFA for like $120 to $150 on ebay, but I read horror stories of those online. Yea really, same ole one barrel carb you used to pick up at junkyards all day long (many times didnt need a rebuild) for $5, that nobody much wanted. But that era has long passed. Junkyards around here long ago got rid of their carb era stuff. I got this rebuilt Motorcraft 2150 for like $70 off ebay. Used 2 into 1 adapter I'd bought for something else few years back. Idle is at times slightly rough, but otherwise working ok so far. As to Jeeps, I get it that nobody liked the 80s computer controlled carbs, especially the BBD, but frankly never understood why Jeep people didnt just get a non-computer older BBD. I mean they were nothing to write home about but I had one on a Dodge pickup 318 way back when and it never gave me any problems. Though when I bought the pickup for $75, it didnt run right. Took the BBD apart and somebody had installed one part backward. Not sure why Carter designed it so this was even possible, but whatever. Oh and did hear they eventually nearly all developed premature shaft wear so they had to sleeved. Anymore finding an actual carb shop that can do this very difficult. Plus in modern world, anybody with any skills like this wants beaucoup bucks to even look cross eyed at item needing repair, let alone actually repairing it.
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Post by hermitjohn on Sept 24, 2015 9:15:51 GMT
Huh, just took quick look on ebay. I may missed a cheaper workaround. The older non-feedback Carter BBD for Dodge 318 can be had in decent shape for under $50. Not the greatest carb in world but I never had any serious problem with them. It was the computer feedback versions that the Jeep people hate. I think price low cause of all the bad rep from feedback version.
Oh, Chrysler products from that era had the remote auto choke, little heatbox cast into the V8 manifold where the spring set, with rod that stuck up to choke butterfly on the carb. So to use them on anything else have to convert to manual choke.
And somebody had a YFA off a 300 cheap with no bids. Said it worked fine, off running engine. Still 3 days so pretty sure it will get bid up.
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Post by hermitjohn on Oct 28, 2015 23:42:32 GMT
Long story, but the MC2150 carb started acting up. While waiting for kit, I found an older MC2100 I had that came off a 1958 Ford 292 engine. With smaller yet 1.02 venturi. Surprisingly it worked even better, though required a manual choke cable.
Today, when I started to back Festiva up, one rear strut snapped. So ordered that. Suppose to come real UPS as promised, but instead the stupid seller listened to his pocketbook instead of his customer and sent it the UPS/USPS hybrid method so I will have to go to post office to get it.
So took the F250 down to the clusterbox. Not one problem, even though it hasnt been off the place for two years. Very happy. Though now need to rewire turn signals before taking it out on hiway. Rat or something been busy doing some rewiring that I now have to repair. Always something.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2015 4:20:23 GMT
John,
I have really enjoyed this thread, for a number of reasons. You are a great writer, and clear with your thoughts. When I read this thread, I felt like I was standing there watching you tackle each of the problems, one by one.
The other great thing about this thread is that you helped teach me that the old school carbs have some value. Of course, everyone wants the Holley 750's, Quadrajets, and anything with an Edlebrock name. Until recently, I would have overlooked common used carbs, but not any more.
I just listed a single barrel GM carb, and found two more old Ford V8 carbs recently. I've had a few nibbles, but haven't sold any of them yet. I probably have them priced a bit too high. Nothing wrong to fish for a big(ger) fish, right?
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