|
|
Post by hermitjohn on Oct 29, 2015 11:53:34 GMT
If you are looking for the Motorcraft/Autolite 2bbl carbs to resell, you want the ones with 1.08 venturi (it will have 1.08 stamped on side inside a little circle). Those are the ones that bring the money from the Jeep people. The demand from the Jeep people are only reason for the high prices I think. The ones with the smaller venturi like that one I am using with 1.02 venturi (they went as small as .98 venturi on those really small "Falcon" V8s Ford made in early 1960s) probably even better for a stock six, but thats not what people are looking out for. They have been told to look for a 1.08 and thats what they do. The bigger ones with 1.14 and 1.21 venturi arent nearly as popular. They were used on 351 and bigger engines. You can use bigger venturi carb on a 300-6 but it has to be jetted much differently and you dont get as good response when you push the pedal. Bigger isnt necessarily better.
People with bigger engines only think of 4bbl when 2bbl is perfectly fine unless you are racing the dang thing at high rpm. No street car needs huge honking carburetor. You just dont reach the kind of rpm that would require that much fuel and air. Its just pure ego talking. Stock 300-6 developed maximum torque at 1800rpm. Anything over say 2400rpm just makes more noise and drinks more fuel without truly giving more power. Even modified 300-6 really isnt going to do much beyond say 3500rpm. And the 300-6 is very thirsty at higher rpm. The head would have to be redesigned to rev much higher. It was a tractor engine, not a race car engine. Anybody wanting to go fast would really get more bang for their buck stuffing a stock big block V8 out of some old luxobarge into a small lightweight car. That would give lot speed and acceleration without modifying the engine.
The thing I have trouble with is still thinking in terms of carburetors when its been long time since the last non-feedback carb was used on a new car. Autozone no longer even stocks carb kits in their stores, they are special order only, and lot 50s era (and earlier) carbs dont even have kits available anymore, or if they do its from some specialty place selling parts for antique cars and they want truly crazy high prices for them. Then again, they know they are going to sell darn few of them. Only people doing an original restoration would be interested. Most just want the look and anymore many graft the body onto an S10 or Dakota pickup chassis. All the modern benefits with the old look.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 30, 2015 2:34:57 GMT
Of course, the carb that I have has 1.21 venturi. Figures.
It is still correct for the larger Ford engines, 360 and up. I probably have it overpriced, but I am getting some nibbles on it.
When it comes to venturi sizes, how are they measured? Thousandths of an inch?
|
|
|
|
Post by hermitjohn on Oct 30, 2015 14:19:01 GMT
I believe its in inches at least on older American made carbs. Its the narrowest part of the carb throat, not the throttle butterflies.   When I was teenager, I got curious if a one barrel carb off an old chevy 235 could be made to work on a VW engine. Not as-is. But I soldered the main jet and redrilled it a smaller size. It still was not happy when engine warmed up. So I got some epoxy and started narrowing the venturi. Over did it and on hottest day of the summer, the carb would get frosty on outside and ice up inside. Yeppers, carb icing problem in August. So opened venturi up with rasp, until it stopped doing that. I got it so engine would run ok, though it still didnt get as good fuel mileage as the Weber I finally bought. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 30, 2015 14:27:24 GMT
Thank you, John!!!
That graphic is COOL!!!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 30, 2015 14:35:11 GMT
I have AWESOME news!!!!
Just a few minutes ago, someone bought one of the Ford carbs that I had listed!!!! I am VERY BLESSED!!!!
Of course, the way ebay is set up now, any item that a person sells could easily boomerang back to them, for any reason under the sun. If the buyer thought we should have used 2 1/2" tape to seal the box instead of 2" tape, they can file with ebay as "item not as described" and return it for that reason.
Thank you, John! I have sold carb cores over the years on ebay when I find them. I reckon I MAY have sold 10 carbs over the past 12 years...but today's sale...that is a blessing. Thanks for reminding me that old carbs can sell for decent amounts.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2015 2:53:31 GMT
hermitjohn, My goodness! I sold the other carb! I'm not kidding, 20 years ago, I would have tossed that carb into the scrap pile. I would have never guessed that it would have sold in a million years, and with ebay's "always favor the buyer" mentality, that old carb could boomerang right back to me. Thanks again for your help!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by hermitjohn on Nov 12, 2015 2:57:59 GMT
Carbs are getting rarer and those out there not wanting to spend hundreds for one at auto parts store. Not like used to be, cant go down to local junkyard and find carbureted cars. Least not ones that still have a carb on them.
I am really hating that hand choke cable I had to use. Its most tempermental thing, stick then suddenly work. I found what I think is a better one, but havent got around to installing it. Really want my automatic hot air choke back. But this carb is the one that works and requires a hand choke.
Whats really going to hurt is when i am forced to own one of modern space alien cars with bunch stuff i dont want to deal with. And that day is probably getting ever closer.
|
|
|
|
Post by hermitjohn on Nov 12, 2015 22:12:17 GMT
Ah, seems the new cable is vastly superior. I can actually gradually open choke without it sticking. Hadnt seen one just like it but nice to know they still make good ones. Cost me $13, I'd long ago given up on the $10 and less ones. I was just worried there wasnt anything between the $3 ones and the $50 ones. And they arent all the super cheap "Help!" ones that are really no help at all. www.ebay.com/itm/281685530605?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2015 0:29:28 GMT
Same here. I never gave it a thought to save the Carb when I scrapped the 89 F250 with a 300 straight 6, utility body, dual tanks, ladder rack etc. The thing ran like a charm, but kept catching fire due to an electrical short. I spent $1000 to fix it the first time, but refused to fix it after it burnt the second time.. That truck was a beast in that it would haul anything and you wouldn't notice the weight. The only problem was it got 9 MPG loaded or empty... Think 87 and up were fuel injected, so unless you converted it to carb.... My 1984 4wd F250 has like a 1977 engine and 4spd T19 transmission. Gets 12 to 13 mpg at 55-60mph. Seems very reasonable considering its weight, wind resistance, and all the extra 4wd parts. I assume you either drove yours faster or had an automatic or both. Non computer carb engine easy to wire up independent of existing wiring harness. No worse rewiring one than it is to rewire some antique derelict car you are restoring. Computerized vehicles not so easy. The factory wiring on my old F250 is an ongoing battle. Previous owners had already jerry rigged it a lot. When something goes, if its important, I just wire around it. Enough wire, pocket of generic Bosch relays, and some inline fuses, and you can wire darn near anything. If I were going to seriously use this truck daily, probably remove all factory wiring and jerry rigged wiring, and rewire the whole thing fresh. But as a firewood truck and occasional hauler, the battle continues just enough repair to keep it functional and relatively safe. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2015 0:31:34 GMT
Same here. I never gave it a thought to save the Carb when I scrapped the 89 F250 with a 300 straight 6, utility body, dual tanks, ladder rack etc. The thing ran like a charm, but kept catching fire due to an electrical short. I spent $1000 to fix it the first time, but refused to fix it after it burnt the second time.. That truck was a beast in that it would haul anything and you wouldn't notice the weight. The only problem was it got 9 MPG loaded or empty... Think 87 and up were fuel injected, so unless you converted it to carb.... My 1984 4wd F250 has like a 1977 engine and 4spd T19 transmission. Gets 12 to 13 mpg at 55-60mph. Seems very reasonable considering its weight, wind resistance, and all the extra 4wd parts. I assume you either drove yours faster or had an automatic or both. Non computer carb engine easy to wire up independent of existing wiring harness. No worse rewiring one than it is to rewire some antique derelict car you are restoring. Computerized vehicles not so easy. The factory wiring on my old F250 is an ongoing battle. Previous owners had already jerry rigged it a lot. When something goes, if its important, I just wire around it. Enough wire, pocket of generic Bosch relays, and some inline fuses, and you can wire darn near anything. If I were going to seriously use this truck daily, probably remove all factory wiring and jerry rigged wiring, and rewire the whole thing fresh. But as a firewood truck and occasional hauler, the battle continues just enough repair to keep it functional and relatively safe. 302 was an option for 85 and was standard in 86. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2015 0:32:36 GMT
Meaning fuel injection.
|
|
|
|
Post by hermitjohn on Dec 19, 2015 1:23:48 GMT
Think 87 and up were fuel injected, so unless you converted it to carb.... My 1984 4wd F250 has like a 1977 engine and 4spd T19 transmission. Gets 12 to 13 mpg at 55-60mph. Seems very reasonable considering its weight, wind resistance, and all the extra 4wd parts. I assume you either drove yours faster or had an automatic or both. Non computer carb engine easy to wire up independent of existing wiring harness. No worse rewiring one than it is to rewire some antique derelict car you are restoring. Computerized vehicles not so easy. The factory wiring on my old F250 is an ongoing battle. Previous owners had already jerry rigged it a lot. When something goes, if its important, I just wire around it. Enough wire, pocket of generic Bosch relays, and some inline fuses, and you can wire darn near anything. If I were going to seriously use this truck daily, probably remove all factory wiring and jerry rigged wiring, and rewire the whole thing fresh. But as a firewood truck and occasional hauler, the battle continues just enough repair to keep it functional and relatively safe. 302 was an option for 85 and was standard in 86. But I was talking the 300-6, not 302-8. 1986 was last year for carburetor on it. Feedback carb, but still a carb. 1987 to 1996 was fuel injection. Dont believe me, look at any online parts catalog. There are no fuel injection parts available for a 1985 or 1986, and there are no carburetor related parts for a 1987 or later. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2015 1:34:24 GMT
Believe you...not too familiar with 300-6. Know about 302 FI..strong but 14 mph.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2015 1:35:18 GMT
That would be mpg. Stupid smart phone.
|
|
|
|
Post by hermitjohn on Dec 19, 2015 2:12:55 GMT
I have some experience with the old carb 289 V8 in a car, older brother to the 302, but guess I never owned a 302, always thought of it as a car engine and much preferred the big six in a pickup.
I liked the Chevy 292-6 with 4spd, but it was never popular choice in consumer market, most of those were sold to commercial fleet customers, so rare to see one in pickup on used market. Fleet customers tended to wear them out, use them up. Chevy retail customers all bought 350 with automatic in pickup. Which I never understood. The big block Chevy engine was the better V8 if you wanted a V8. Course guess they got so they only offered the 454 version as option, didnt offer the smaller displacement big blocks in pickups. The big block 366 was actually rather nice engine for that size. see them in school buses and such. Long stroke, small bore, real truck engine with low end torque, not a car engine. They wont win any races, but pull heck of a load and last long time.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2015 2:55:19 GMT
I bought it for 450 bucks with crankshaft hanging out of the block..new engine..AOD transmission...355 gears...nearly six years and 9K just about done..paint in spring...everything new..a/c...runs rides drives just like new...new limited slip rear...beats 35K for a new one.
|
|
|
|
Post by hermitjohn on Dec 20, 2015 14:41:05 GMT
I think car companies are in for a rude surprise. They are pushing price points up to where working folk cant afford to buy new, except few micro sub compact cars. I mean only an insane person takes a 30 year loan on a vehicle with an expected ten year lifespan.... Course thats also why we are only getting offered vehicles with every luxury option ever conceived. Wealthy folk dont buy stripped down new vehicles with manual transmissions. So everything sold gets the "cadillac" treatment for maximum profitability from those that will buy such monstrosities. And rest of us get saddled with the used monstrosities when the ashtray gets full.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 20, 2015 15:33:39 GMT
In 91 I bought a new f250 4x4 standard cab...cloth seats..351..5 speed manual..pw pl etc...$13800.00 I saw an ad for new gmc half ton..sticker price?...57K!
|
|
|
|
Post by hermitjohn on Dec 20, 2015 18:07:19 GMT
I remember when you could buy a new six cylinder half ton with manual transmission for $2000.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 21, 2015 1:40:46 GMT
Pretty sure my dad bought a 1970 Chevy 250 6 three on the tree..2200 brand new.
|
|
