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Honda
Nov 13, 2015 23:50:28 GMT
Post by sss3 on Nov 13, 2015 23:50:28 GMT
Check engine ligh is on 2003 Honda Civic. Keep telling me it's the gas cap. I know it's not. What is prob? Know this has been discussed before; could find anything doing a search.
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Honda
Nov 17, 2015 15:07:38 GMT
Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2015 15:07:38 GMT
Hondas are known for evap leaks, rotten fuel lines and gas tanks in higher mile cars. I just did lines and a new tank on my 2002 last year Evap canister leak www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ckj2PN9KABE
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Deleted
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Honda
Nov 17, 2015 15:33:07 GMT
Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2015 15:33:07 GMT
Just out of curiosity, how do you know that it is not the gas cap? It very well could be. I had mine do the same thing about four years ago and changed the cap. Now all is well.
And @fixitguy is quite correct with Hondas having this problem with evap leakage. Another problem is weak head gaskets. I found that one out the hard way about 3,000 miles past the warranty.
My current major gripe with my Honda is the alternator. Mine seized up about a week ago. I had to remove the power steering pump and reservoir and take off the front tire just to get to all of the pertinent bolts to remove the alternator. What a pain in the butt!!! And then the adjusting bolts were frozen for both the alternator and the power steering pump and both broke. I had to replace them and it took the dealer a day and a half to get them. They did not have them on hand.
Now I am trying to figure out what I can do to protect those adjusting bolts from freezing up again. They are out in the open and quite small compared to most. I slathered them with anti-seize, but that will soon disappear on the open threads with time. There has to be some kind of coating that I can use that will be a permanent protection for those bolt assemblies and yet easily removed when I need them to be.
Any ideas fixitguy???
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Honda
Nov 17, 2015 18:46:50 GMT
Post by hermitjohn on Nov 17, 2015 18:46:50 GMT
There is some stuff called "liquid electric tape". That might be just the ticket for exposed threads. Yes you can get it at Walmart or probably most places that sell hardware or electrical stuff. You would want the threads really clean before applying it.
Or occasionally apply some wheel bearing grease, the real heavy sticky thick kind (getting hard to find anymore). I use that on my battery terminals/clamps, keeps them from corroding and doesnt melt in hot weather or come off easily.
Silicone caulking might work?
Melt candle wax or paraffin on the threads? If you could get them completely coated, that might be one of best ways to go.
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Deleted
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Honda
Nov 17, 2015 19:37:18 GMT
Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2015 19:37:18 GMT
There is some stuff called "liquid electric tape". That might be just the ticket for exposed threads. Yes you can get it at Walmart or probably most places that sell hardware or electrical stuff. You would want the threads really clean before applying it. Or occasionally apply some wheel bearing grease, the real heavy sticky thick kind (getting hard to find anymore). I use that on my battery terminals/clamps, keeps them from corroding and doesnt melt in hot weather or come off easily. Silicone caulking might work? Melt candle wax or paraffin on the threads? If you could get them completely coated, that might be one of best ways to go. All pretty good ideas except for the fact that I am not sure if they would be able to handle the heat. It will not be as hot as the engine block itself, but there will be some conductive heat since the tension bolts are connected to the block in an indirect manner.
I have a jar of the "liquid electrical tape" but I have to find it and check to see what it says, if anything, regarding how much heat it can take.
Right now I just have a whole lot of anti-seize slathered on the bolts, but I am not sure how long it will stay in place and I am not really crazy about making this a monthly preventative maintenance duty.
I would prefer to find something that will be somewhat pliable when cured, will last for a year or so at least and can be removed fairly easily if I ever have to adjust the tension on the belts or remove pieces and parts again.
I have a tube or two of a marine adhesive sealant that fits the bill in many areas, but the package says nothing about being able to handle heat.
Replacing all of the bolts and such cost over $70. This one particular piece, the alternator adjuster stay cost $33 all by itself and is similar to the one in the link. I just do not want to go through all of that again.
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Honda
Nov 17, 2015 20:50:11 GMT
Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2015 20:50:11 GMT
Here's a neat video on what it takes to replace the gas tank on accords, civics etc of these years. The guy said 3~4 hrs labor~ no way. I think I had 10~12 hrs in it. I had to replace the break lines and fuel lines along with the gas tank. I also put new rear shoes in since I had them already. And I had the car on a two post lift also. www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6xl1SYmRaM
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Honda
Nov 18, 2015 1:05:53 GMT
Post by shellymay on Nov 18, 2015 1:05:53 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2015 1:18:22 GMT
Thanks!!! shellymay, I saw something similar to this advertised on-line by AutoZone the other day and when I was at the store I was told by the employee that no such thing existed. Now I know better. This stuff seems to meet my needs. It can survive 450*, plus it is oil, water, weather, vibration and grease resistant. I do not think that there is much more that I need it to do. Even if it only lasted for a year I will be happy. I will have to test it out first before applying it to the bolts. I want to see how easy or difficult it is to remove when I want it to be removed. Thank you very much for the assist.
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Honda
Nov 18, 2015 18:35:09 GMT
Post by shellymay on Nov 18, 2015 18:35:09 GMT
Check engine ligh is on 2003 Honda Civic. Keep telling me it's the gas cap. I know it's not. What is prob? Know this has been discussed before; could find anything doing a search. I drive a chevy Malibu, and my gas cap is bad but this is what mine does....
I stop to fill up with fuel, within seconds of starting car back up my check engine light comes on, then my fuel gauge goes to EMPTY yep all the way down to empty and my low fuel light comes on (remember I just filled tank)... So I continue on my normal travel, in a day or two of normal work and home and errands, the fuel gauge will go back to FULL tank, takes one more day and then check engine light goes off and ALL is perfectly normal until I stop and fill up with fuel again, then all is repeated....LOL
I did try to buy a new cheap gas cap from auto zone, I think if I purchased one from the dealer my problem would go away, just hate paying dealer prices But it just seems like the seal on gas cap isn't sealing tight until a few days go by and it swells up again and seals, I have no clue but I am not going to sweat it right now! Car only has 115,000 on it.
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Honda
Nov 18, 2015 18:54:56 GMT
Post by sss3 on Nov 18, 2015 18:54:56 GMT
My car has 112,000 mi. Reason don't think it is gas cap, light came on after having had car for few yrs. There's been 3 dif gas caps on it. It's been reset a couple times. Thought someone on here posted her prob was not gas cap. Would like to hear from her.
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Post by Ken on Nov 18, 2015 19:31:33 GMT
My 02 Camry has had the check engine light on almost since I got it. I took it in months after getting it and they replaced the gas cap and the light went away. Months later the light was back. I've had it reset a few times, but it always comes back on. I've been ignoring it now for about 8 yrs or so. 250k miles. Doubt it was an engine problem.
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Post by sss3 on Nov 18, 2015 22:37:06 GMT
Ken Totally agree.
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Honda
Nov 20, 2015 0:15:33 GMT
Post by sss3 on Nov 20, 2015 0:15:33 GMT
Read if check engine light isn't flashing, don't be concerned about it. Obviously I can't prove it.
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Honda
Nov 20, 2015 13:50:45 GMT
sss3 likes this
Post by shellymay on Nov 20, 2015 13:50:45 GMT
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Post by sss3 on Nov 20, 2015 14:03:11 GMT
shellymay Forgot about Auto Zone. They told me; have some kind of tool $15 to check the check engine light.
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Honda
Nov 20, 2015 15:49:39 GMT
sss3 likes this
Post by Ken on Nov 20, 2015 15:49:39 GMT
sss3, yea, I've used those (back when it was free for them to come test it for me). They can report a variety of things, such as air intake sensor, etc. Clean the seal around your gas cap and where the cap seals to the car, find someone with a code reader for your car (preferably free to use) and reset the engine check light. See if the light comes back on.
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