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Post by oxankle on Dec 13, 2015 21:22:24 GMT
The front passenger window on my truck would not go up or down yesterday. Rain coming, window open, so in the garage it went. This morning I found a really good "HowTo" on the net and pulled the master switch ---it is so simple a child could do it.
Found the switch dirty on top but clean inside, contacts burned. cleaned the obviously burned one, reinstalled---nothing. Took it apart again and cleaned both "hot" points on the passenger switch. Put it back together and the window went up as it should. Cleaning the contacts is the most difficult part of the job because of the small parts that must be removed and replaced.
The switches are so inexpensive, less than $30 on the net, that I will replace the switch ASAP.
I'll say this much; Ford engineering is good; the switches are simple and come on and off with snaps.
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Post by hermitjohn on Dec 14, 2015 0:53:35 GMT
Funny, Ford engineering was even simpler and better in the days of manual roll up windows. I always said that I would give more for a used vehicle with manual roll up windows. Vehicles get some miles on them and all those expensive gadget convenience items cause no end of trouble. The old engineers motto of "Keep It Simple Stupid" alas is long dead I think. Or at least the old engineers that believed in it are all dead.
Friend had a Chevy Lumina van that seriously would lock all the doors if you walked away from it. You'd hear this rattling sound and bim bam boom, all doors locked. If you left the key in the ignition, tough luck. He asked me how to fix it. I told him if it were mine, I would cut and tape the wires going to the power door locks (or at least drivers door lock) so fast it wouldnt even be funny. I hate machines that try to out guess me as to what I want. But he didnt want to modify anything in a non-factory approved way, said the factory should make it right and come up with an official solution. LOL!!! He didnt have to worry, soon after that, he took it in to Walmart for oil change. They checked all the fluids, forgot to replace the radiator cap, and it fried the engine.... denied all responsibility of course cause they are such upstanding citizens. I told him, best thing that could of happened to him, that was a purely evil van and would been the death of him.
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Post by oxankle on Dec 14, 2015 4:45:02 GMT
Took my van to Walmart for an oil change just before I left for an eleven hundred mile trip. Came home, decided to see if the van had used any oil on the trip and found that WM had not replaced the oil cap. Fortunately the factory had a baffle over the rockers and none of the oil blew out on the engine.
Walmart replaced the cap, but they made me sign away any right to sue.
An earlier Dodge blew a valve stem seal at about 45,000 miles and started using oil like a drunk. I took it in on warranty and told them what I suspected. They poo-poo'ed my suggestion and taped up the oil filler and drain, made me drive it. I went in several times more than a quart low in 500 mile, so they finally "rebuilt" the engine, totally unnecessary. No improvement though I told them the heads were the problem. Finally, just before the 75,000 mile warranty played out I threw a fit in front of customers and demanded that they find and rebuild the bad head. Rebuilt both and the car never used another quart of oil between changes. It was still running like a top with over 100,000 miles on it when the late wife totaled it.
Got a new switch for the 150 from Switch Doctor, $22.50 including shipping. Delivered to my door via USPS. Installed in ten minutes, works perfectly and has a lifetime guarantee. I would never have expected such an easy fix.
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Post by oxankle on Dec 24, 2015 2:03:17 GMT
Thought I'd post an update;
I bought a new master switch for the windows on the F-150. The four windows and the window lock-out switch. Cost $22.50 in my hand by mail in four days from Switch Doctor, lifetime guarantee. Took all of ten minutes to remove the switch and reinstall. (having done it before)
Hardest part of the whole job was learning how to depress the tabs so that wires could be disconnected and the switch removed from the arm rest. Since I'd found the video on U-tube and had done it earlier, installing the new switch was a snap.
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