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Post by shellymay on May 18, 2016 14:19:46 GMT
hermitjohn, Always nice to be reminded that the older trucks have manual and that we should pay attention when being behind them in traffic, I for one don't always remember so thank you
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Post by hermitjohn on Jul 5, 2016 18:25:26 GMT
25% off coupon at Harbor Freight on July4 so just ordered a transmission jack rather than try to build one. No way I am bench pressing this granny tranny into place. Though guessing I will have to modify the top of the transmission jack to make transmission sit more firmly. The little white tin V-tray thing isnt going to support it that well by itself or even using the included strap.
But now back to the hot steamy summer weather. No way to get the Ranger into the shade to work on it since it no longer moves under its own power. So still may have to wait until cooler weather. Right now you leave tool out in sun and you arent going to pick it up with your bare hand, least not in daylight hours. Not for more than a second or two....
And I get transmission mounted, still have lot adapting of exhaust, driveshaft, and hydraulic clutch linkage. Not to mention speedometer and backup light (this transmission is from before vehicles had backup light so no built in switch) You do something non original and crazy like this and you have lot of other things needing to be changed/modified also.
Guess I better just work on the old tractor as its already in partial to full shade. It becomes movable under its own power and Ranger can be pulled into shade.
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Post by hermitjohn on Jul 8, 2016 21:47:26 GMT
Got the transmission jack. Little heavier duty than I expected, which is a good thing. Needs greasing and the wheels put on it. I just took it out of box, didnt do anything else with it today. Spent my energy today mowing.
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Post by hermitjohn on Oct 7, 2016 18:18:42 GMT
Well broken transmission is out. Now to finish adapting the old SM420. It surprised me, despite being out of an elderly half ton Chevy the transmission has yoke for bigger ujoint than used in most half ton pickups so had to order an adapter ujoint that fits the driveshaft and the transmission yoke. Finding a different yoke would been lot more hassle to locate and probably lot more expensive to buy. Adapter ujoint was $24 shipped (MOOG made in USA) And the Wilwood clutch master/slave on way. Lot hassle to adapt non original transmission, but hopefully be worth it.
Slow as I am, should have drivable Ranger before October is gone. Just depends on weather and how well all the parts cooperate in real life. It works in my head, real life maybe different. LOL Then again I just dont seem to ever be able to own a vehicle that hasnt been extensively modified anymore. My idea of how a vehicle should work and the modern corporate/government idea, doesnt seem very similar. I still need a pickup more like sold in 40s, 50s, and 60s. Not what is offered today.
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Post by hermitjohn on Oct 31, 2016 0:29:39 GMT
Slow, slow progress. Today though I have the SM420 stabbed to the 4.0L Ford engine with couple bolts completely holding bellhousing to engine (with transmission jack under transmission). So finally can see real world fit of it and how everything interacts. Tomorrow have to weld up a custom cross member to support rear of transmission. Then see how exhaust y-pipe fits around transmission, if it fits. Expecting to have to modify it. Hopefully nothing extreme.
Got real lucky on driveshaft. Found that rear section of two piece driveshaft from a early 2000s 4wd Escape is same as front section of two piece driveshaft on ranger, just longer. In other words it has the carrier bearing and the two ujoint yokes. No its not exact length I need, that would be too lucky. But its always easier to shorten a driveshaft than lengthen one. And not very expensive to have shop balance it. Also these are plentiful. Apparently its the front section of the driveshaft that Escape owners want to buy. Guy I bought it from made sure I understood I was just getting rear section. He'd already sold front section. The front or the whole Escape driveshaft is lot more expensive than just the rear section. I never try to explain what I am actually going to do with a part. That confuses sellers and gets them worried I will get hurt and sue them. Just let them think I am using it for its original application.
Anyway same size ujoints and though it uses a different carrier bearing, the inside diameter of Escape carrier bearing is same as inside diameter of the Ranger carrier bearing. I just went ahead and bought a new Ranger carrier bearing to use. Both old Ranger bearing and Escape bearing still ok, but have lot miles on them and no way to lube them. Its no fun when a carrier bearing goes and driveshaft is flopping around. New Ranger carrier bearing assembly $5 from RockAuto.com. Yea I couldnt believe it either. Now the Escape carrier bearing is more like $60 to $70. Glad I didnt have to buy one of those. Even the old Chevy and Ford p/u carrier bearings are around $20 with everything else much higher.
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Post by hermitjohn on Nov 2, 2016 20:59:52 GMT
Well new cross member in and transmission all properly supported. Next is to get exhaust bolted up so I can see if it will allow clutch arm to move properly. I was surprised the exhaust Y-pipe will actually fit without modification, but need to get it bolted in place with catalytic converter bolted on and see where that leaves me with the clutch arm. I think if I shorten clutch arm just a bit, should work ok, but that was with me holding y-pipe in place with one hand and clutch arm with other, so need to bolt things together to see what exact fit is. If exhaust and clutch arm ok, that really gets me lot closer to drivable vehicle. Have to modify the driveshaft and install the Wilwood master cylinder. Then actually it should be drivable.
Should been done with this long while ago, but body doesnt have much stamina for this kind heavy work anymore and weather wasnt cooperative either. Hottest October in long time. And still not really cooled down. I am guessing maybe more a rainy/icy winter again without much snow.
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Post by hermitjohn on Nov 6, 2016 21:54:53 GMT
Exhaust Y-pipe and catalytic converter back in and bolted up. It took some extensive modification of the clutch arm, but looks like good clearance of exhaust yet enough room for clutch arm to move enough to disengage the clutch. I am so happy not to have to cut and chop and weld on that Y-pipe.
Now just putting spacer behind brake booster so I have enough room to mount the Wilwood master cylinder on firewall behind it. And I need new bracket for brake cable. Had to cut old one that was rivetted on to get it out of way of new cross member. And a bracket for the Wilwood clutch slave cylinder. Trivial stuff like that. Really close to a drivable truck I think. So many things that could have went badly, but didnt. You can think these things out infinitum, but when actually doing it in real world.... miscalculate some small clearance and major time consuming pain to find a workaround.
Oh the surprise problem. I put the heavy cast iron shifter top cover on transmission. Dang shifter tower part of casting is TALL (that shifter fits into), and comes right up under dash. This transmission was designed in another era when dashboard was minimal in trucks and there was lot more room under it. This transmission last offered in new truck in like 1966 or 1967.
So either I chop some out of the plastic to make room for original shifter to swing to and fro... or I cut off shifter just leaving a stub and weld linkage to that stub then put shifter back about a foot. Not keen on either option. First method make Ranger look really trashy inside the cab. Second going to introduce more slop into shifting process. That however is last thing I am going to deal with on this project, as its inside cab out of the weather. Get the under hood and under cab stuff done first as never know when weather can change drastically this time year. I am moving super slow on this project but its coming together.
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Post by hermitjohn on Nov 15, 2016 20:16:33 GMT
Progress still slow, slow, slow. But end is in sight, should be drivable by end of week. Spacer for the brake booster made and Wilwood clutch master cylinder bolted in. I've been standing on my head trying to get pedal rods all installed and adjusted. Tomorrow I work on driveshaft. Then just putting back all the trivia like carpet and drivers seat and such.
Anybody ever works with one of these old SM420 trannies, big hint, if it doesnt shift right or mainshaft seems locked up even in neutral, most likely the shifter lid isnt positioned correctly. The little internal lever for extra gear cluster that shifter engages for granny first gear wasnt getting into its proper notch. And with front of truck up in air, the lever didnt want to stay centered on its own while I manhandled the very heavy shifter lid into place. Some engineer didnt think to make it impossible to install shifter lid without little lever in its notch. On other hand, very rare to ever have lid off it short of doing a rebuild. I had it off due to space limitations in non-original application, much easier without the lid and its tall shifter tower in the way. Cant complain, this old transmission was an engineering marvel, super compact, yet could hold up well, even used in a 2 ton truck. Thats my idea of good engineering.
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Post by fretless on Nov 23, 2016 14:56:16 GMT
hermitjohn, you are a genius! Wish we lived closer, because y'all could teach this old dog some neat tricks!
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Post by hermitjohn on Nov 23, 2016 17:10:35 GMT
I dont know about genius, LOL, lot folks adapt these old granny four speeds to Jeeps and other 4WDs to make a rock crawler. Not many put one into a Ranger for day to day use... Frankly none of this kind of adapting thing economically worth the trouble unless you either dont have money for doing it any other way, or if you simply cant buy what you want cause anymore all newer vehicles are made for urban/suburban yuppies, not backwoods/farm use. Or you just like puttering and have lot spare time. Or all three. I didnt see doubling my investment in truck by buying a replacement junkyard light duty OEM transmission that also has zillion miles. Especially not to use in a 4000 pound pickup. Rebuilt versions cost more than the truck. And I already had the SM420 setting around in the tall grass, out of an ancient Chevy pickup. Granny four speed is my favorite tranny for a pickup, all pickups should come from factory with one, let people that want an automatic, adapt one out of some car!
On other hand I havent felt up to messing most of summer heat and had no way to get Ranger into shade, not shade with electric anyway. Now getting some days too cold. Though about finished, I am down to bleeding clutch slave (trivial with this setup) and shortening the Escape section of driveshaft. Then should be drivable.
Though you do any major re-engineering like this and always little unforeseen problems cropping up, some hidden until you actually try to drive the vehicle. Lot parts I am using were never intended to work together. Different makes and different eras. Also little things cause delays like not finding 24mm or 15/16 inch sockets so had to buy new one to get nut off Escape driveshaft yoke so I could change out the carrier bearing.
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Post by hermitjohn on Nov 23, 2016 17:38:43 GMT
Oh, here is what an SM420 looks like: Here is what original M5od-r1 looks like:
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Post by hermitjohn on Nov 25, 2016 0:36:03 GMT
Wilwood clutch linkage bled. I have good firm pedal. Three good weather days left to finish off the driveshaft, then should be tentatively drivable, at least to test it driving around the field. Think even slowpoke like me can handle that unless I make some big stupid blunder. And unfortunately, thats not an impossibility. Measure six times, cut once.... I think best way is to install the old driveshaft and measure how short it is from reaching transmission. Easier to measure distance lacking than how much too long it is.
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Post by hermitjohn on Nov 26, 2016 23:00:27 GMT
Driveshaft in and seat bolted down. I have replaced lot ujoints in my life, the rear one on this Ranger had to be worst ever, and that includes some real rustbuckets back when I lived in Michigan.
Ready to come off the blocks tomorrow for test drive around the field. Sure there will be plenty tweaks needed, but should run and drive. I still have to make a chart as to what speed in what gear at what rpm since I wont have a working speedometer, so have to drive by tachometer.
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Post by hermitjohn on Nov 29, 2016 20:04:45 GMT
Well got it off the blocks and drove it around the place some. Transmission at first really stiff, loosened up some driving around. Has an exhaust leak I need to fix and clutch needs bit adjustment as I have to push pedal to floor to fully disengage clutch. After moving truck, found the missing rear driveshaft flange bolt in grass.
Biggest surprise was to find with its 3.26 axle ratio, that granny first isnt a creeper gear. Oh its lower than first in most vehicles but not super low creeper crawler gear like I experienced in old trucks in past. I will actually use it in traffic from dead stop on inclines. Guess I'd never driven a truck with granny four speed that had that tall of a rear axle.
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Post by hermitjohn on Dec 1, 2016 23:08:34 GMT
Grrrr... got it back up in air and the missing rear driveshaft flange bolt replaced and clutch slave adjusted. And catalytic converter removed for working room and tightened passenger side y-pipe to exhaust manifold. Then started it. marginally quieter but still serious exhaust leak. Tomorrow I retighten the drivers side y-pipe to manifold. No reason for it to be noisy, didnt change anything just removed y-pipe and put it back. Apparently I didnt get clamp assembly on drivers side evenly snug. Way back when I bought the Ranger, had to cut the hardened bolts factory screwed into manifolds in order to get y-pipe off. The heads on these bolts had been seriously rusted and rounded off and threads welded by rust to manifold. Instead of trying to drill out the hardened bolts in manifold I came up with some clamps. Hey it worked first time when I did clutch. This time I apparently didnt get them evenly tightened when I put y-pipe back.
I get exhaust leak fixed, going to drive it down to clusterbox and home again. See how it really does with little more stress and strain and speed. That works, then its ready to try on hiway. Should do ok, but this is shade tree engineering at its finest.... so proof is in the pudding.
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Post by smokey on Dec 6, 2016 14:49:18 GMT
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Post by hermitjohn on Dec 6, 2016 16:08:59 GMT
That exhaust leak on passenger side where y-pipe attaches to exhaust manifold gave me fits. Cant see it clearly as its hidden by oil filter and frame rail. But length heater hose held to my ear and then placed various places told me there was the big leak. Yesterday after lot looking and wiggling stuff, finally occured to me that the y-pipe wasnt at the correct angle for tight fit. The catalytic converter to y-pipe flange was sitting too close to frame which is the big clue. But I cant change angle cause the clutch arm is in way. Remember all the V6 Rangers and most of the four cylinder Rangers except very early ones, had the internal slave, well I converted to external when I adapted the SM420 and clutch arm has to get around y-pipe. I truly hate those internal slave setups. At least I figured out problem, kept thinking I just didnt have things centered.
So I either need to modify the y-pipe or further modify the clutch arm. Probably next Sunday or Monday as next few days not pleasant to work outside. And of course will try modifying clutch arm first though its going to be one wacky looking clutch arm. Nightmare to chop up the y-pipe and then try to get it welded back together with everything in proper alignment. I truly am not a fan of V type engines, always liked old inline engines to work on much better.
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Post by hermitjohn on Dec 14, 2016 14:01:39 GMT
I did get clutch arm modified. Beat it mercilessly with big hammer to make sure welds would hold. Then of course the end snapped off the rod from pedal to clutch master.... So get to make one.
Also after multiple efforts loosening and wiggling the y-pipe, finally to conclusion the flange that holds pipe to manifold on passenger side is weak and bent. Wont hold pipe snugly enough to manifold. I got noise down some but still lot noise from that junction. And these dont use the donut gaskets like the old systems. There are two piece repair flanges and short sections of flange pipe with new flange that you can weld in place of old. And can still get whole new Walker y-pipe for around $70. Cold again for some time so plenty time to price things out. I am tempted to just replace the whole y-pipe, but thats extreme, think its still servicable, just need new flange.
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Post by hermitjohn on Dec 14, 2016 21:31:28 GMT
No room for the two piece ones. Going to have to take whole y-pipe off and weld on a new flared end along with a new one piece flange. Luckily its only $8 shipped. Y-pipe itself still solid enough to be worth doing this. Though part of me tempted to just buy a new y-pipe and slap it on. I was just curious and priced what it would cost to make a y-pipe from universal pieces. If you could salvage the part that joins the y-pipe to the catalytic converter, might be worth it, but seriously, timewise, just buy a new y-pipe. Wont save that much and they know it.
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Post by hermitjohn on Dec 15, 2016 21:03:56 GMT
Ok, finally got out there and measured. My y-pipe tubing is 1 7/8 inch outside diameter. The closest size repair piece is 2 inch outside diameter. Fit will depend on flared end of pipe being held tight against the manifold casting outlet, there is no donut or gasket. Not sure if 1/8 inch makes difference or not. Shouldnt but famous last words.... Anyway $7.55 shipped so I gambled. Keep reminding myself there is no super big hurry, if I have to drive the F250 for groceries the next three months, so be it. Been driving it all summer and fall.
Anyway if it doesnt fit tight, then can always buy a new y-pipe and just bolt it on. Found out the later Rangers/Explorers with 4.0L had a really wacky expensive y-pipe, it has two catalytic converters as part of it. Basically two catalytic converters welded so they act as a y-pipe. Engineer that thought that one up really needs a big dope slap. There is very little room to work around stuff on mine, with couple catalytic converters bulging out it would be darn near impossible to work on. You'd basically have to get your torch out and cut it up in pieces, then weld it back together when you wanted to reinstall it.
I think I know why they did it though, having catalytic converters as close to manifolds as possible means they reach operating temperature sooner than if they are behind the y-pipe. Still sucks for anybody working on it. Sometimes getting that last infinitesimal bit of emission reduction or improvement in gas mileage, just isnt worth it in real life.
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Post by hermitjohn on Dec 21, 2016 23:55:12 GMT
Got that universal Walker flange repair end yesterday. The flange on it isnt some "engineered" light duty thing made to use least amount metal possible, that weakens with bit rust, this is heavy duty thick piece steel. Old school way of making something to last. No doubt probably outlast the truck, or at least the y-pipe. Today when temp outside finally warmed up enough, I took off the y-pipe. Yep the flange is bad on passenger side, quite deformed. I managed to both take some off that end of y-pipe and shortened the repair end. Repair end slid over the old pipe fine, think to correct length and pretty good fit. You probably could even hold it in place with a muffler clamp if you didnt weld, though welding is usally much better way to go if possible. Figure to dry fit it to make sure everything is correct, before welding it.
Also noticed probably be good idea to further modify the very end of the clutch arm while I have things apart. Way it is, the rod from slave going through end of clutch arm likely to at least occasionally bind, too sharp an angle. This kind shade tree engineering just requires lot patience, observation, and puttering. Eventually its all fitted to where it can work well together.
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Post by hermitjohn on Dec 30, 2016 23:18:51 GMT
After lot more struggle than I ever imagined, I finally have y-pipe on and its quiet when I start the engine. I had to put new flange on drivers side too and make couple more of those homemade c-clamps to hold flange to manifold. They sell them factory made but want crazy price. Doesnt take that long to weld some from a bolt, some nuts and a length of half inch rebar. I even ended up reversing one so it could tighten from engine compartment as it was too close to frame to tighten from below.
Tomorrow I have to weld the rod from clutch pedal to clutch master. Think I mentioned end snapped off. I'll re-engineer connection so its stronger than factory. Then another test drive.
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Post by hermitjohn on Jan 1, 2017 10:19:11 GMT
Ok, this time clutch rod bent. I am thinking at some point in its travel, its at awkward angle. Much as I hate it, probably need to disassemble pedal assembly and drill new hole exactly 90 degrees perpendicular to the master cylinder mounted on firewall. i had been trying to use the original pivot stud on the pedal, trying to compensate for it being higher than the master cylinder with upturn in angle of rear of rod.
Ran across several instances of people with this problem, usually they tried to beef up the rod. On one forum however, some guy with RX7 having this problem. His used clevis and hole in the pedal. Apparently the bushing had broken and hole elongated, the clevis moved into the elongated part of hole at certain place in pedal travel, causing awkward angle and lot strain on the rod so it bends or breaks. Anyway he solved his problem drilling a 22mm hole in pedal and inserting a real bearing. Said not only stopped problem of bent rods but made pushing clutch pedal much easier as he had extra heavy duty clutch. I would definitely do that except I would have to order a bearing and hole saw to make that size hole.
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Post by hermitjohn on Jan 2, 2017 17:43:04 GMT
Ok, this is annoying. I am starting to have problems with clutch master cylinder on F250 where I have to pump pedal to change gears. Bleeding doesnt help and slave isnt leaking, so gotta be the master. Grrr... This isnt a genuine Wilwood, but a clone cause I was trying to save couple bucks. I assume the rubber parts wore out, maybe cheaper quality than genuine Wilwood. You can get a universal Wilwood rebuild kit, but no guarantees it fits anything and it costs half what a new master cylinder costs on Amazon. Why in world Wilwood doesnt list what their stupid rebuild kit actually rebuilds???? If it were cheaper or if it said it fit the Wilwood version of clone I have, I would gamble, but for price they want, its not worth the gamble.
Guessing I will substitute the clutch master off the Ranger while waiting for new genuine Wilwood. I need the F250 to be reliable and dont want to get stuck someplace where I cant get it in gear. Looks like in future I just have to keep a spare clutch master cylinder around in case... If I could find it locally, imagine it would be twice the price.
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Post by smokey on Jan 2, 2017 18:59:59 GMT
Sorry to hear about the problems with your F250 HJ, Seems to be the week for aggravating mechanical problems. I just found out that pack rats chewed up a bunch of wiring on my Ford 2000 tractor which has always been 100% reliable.
Bad feeling when something you count on has problems out of the blue.
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Post by hermitjohn on Jan 2, 2017 19:48:14 GMT
No kidding. I remember when I used to go to car auctions, once computer cars became common, rats chewing wiring brought several otherwise good cars to the salvage section. Nobody much wanted to untangle that mess.
I swapped master cylinders and having heck of time trying to get it bled. Quite a workout doing this by myself. Couldnt find my little MightyVac hand pump. Only use it once every few years.. When all else fails that will bleed just about any brake or clutch system, assuming bleeder valve has nipple I can attach the hose to.
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Post by hermitjohn on Jan 3, 2017 17:20:03 GMT
Ok, last "warm" day for a while though its foggy and raining. Mid 40s now and temp dropping all day. And I need a drivable vehicle. So took deep breath and substituted the new pull type clutch slave off the Ranger into the F250. Bingo, I have working clutch again even if I lost some bits and pieces in grass in process. Unfortunately means either rebuilding or replacing the bad one. Sure its just worn rubber parts, only been using it since last spring. So decision of buying a Wilwood kit for $20 and hoping it fits and clone manufacturer didnt do some shortcut in manufacture, or buying a new genuine Wilwood pull slave for $75 or another new clone for like $40. I could try for some custom linkage that would let push type slave do what the pull type does, but dont much want to. 80s Chevy p/u slave is less than $20. Older cast iron Jeep slave around $25.
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Post by hermitjohn on Jan 4, 2017 23:33:51 GMT
Ok, took apart the faulty slave cylinder. Nope, Wilwood kit wont work. Wilwood slave uses two o-rings. This thing uses one o-ring and one cup seal. I didnt see any wear on o-ring so assume its the cup that is bad.
Looking and find the 80s CJ jeeps, at least the ones with GM four cylinder, use a cast iron slave with 7/8 inch bore (the Wilwood and clones have 7/8 bore so no problem using same 3/4 inch bore master). Popular in use for hydraulic conversion in older jeeps. Can buy a new one for $15 on ebay. Cheapest I found a new genuine Wilwood was $76. Ok, fine, I can weld up a bracket to save $60. No problem using a push type on the F250, lots of working room, but on the Ranger, would need to be very creative to use a push type. But heck I like a challenge. I just hope these are not horrible to bleed. Some of push type can be a nightmare.
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Post by shellymay on Jan 5, 2017 15:01:21 GMT
hermitjohn, Still following your journey I don't post much but did want to give you this info, we get tons of seals from these folks and are happy with them, herculesus.com/
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Post by hermitjohn on Jan 5, 2017 15:45:21 GMT
I ordered the Jeep slave. Not probably going to get much cheaper than $15 for new complete slave. Only gamble is how long its aged on shelf someplace. Just the Wilwood rebuild kit is $20.
Trying to figure some generic cup seal that would work with the cloned Wilwood probably huge hassle. If I were doing that, I might just try to find a brake wheel cylinder rebuild kit for one that is 7/8 inch. They at least used to be like $2. Then make hole in middle so I could bolt it up to the piston and get cup oriented correct direction.
Its a good thing I have loads of time to think and tinker with this stuff as its lot more time consuming than just removing and replacing OEM parts. But since I drive less than 1000 miles a year, nothing is super urgent anymore as long as I have at least one vehicle that is drivable to go get groceries and mail. Just nicer to have two in case the one breaks down.
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