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Post by hermitjohn on Nov 23, 2017 21:14:37 GMT
Well gotta say its nice having a driveway that I dont need either 4wd or running start in 2wd. Took Ranger for a drive. Ok, the 4.0L and the SM420, not a match made in heaven. But it should work for my needs, the new release bearing has grease in it so actually works, unlike previous new one that factory didnt bother to grease.
I am having problem that once engine gets warmed up, it will stall coming to a stop. Starts right up again and stays running at idle, but annoying. Doesnt stall coming to stop when engine is cold. No doubt IAC isnt exactly right though its a new high quality one.
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Post by hermitjohn on Nov 29, 2017 10:15:42 GMT
Maybe finally. I think I have the stalling problem solved. It had progressed from stalling when rolling to a stop, to not wanting to idle more than a minute once engine warmed up.
Dumbest stupidest thing ever. Seems previous owner had "adjusted" the throttle screw. Well in old days no biggie. Just idles a little higher. But on modern crap, the throttle shaft is monitored by throttle positioning sensor. And computer is getting feedback from many other sensors to figure fuel needed, etc. Well widening the opening of throttle valve doesnt increase rpms, it effectively causes computer to lean out the idle mixture.
After hair pulling frustration, I finally got experimenting as to how changing small stuff affected computer. The TPS isnt adjustable but if you remove screws, you can turn it bit each direction and amazing even tiny bit of movement (with everything else remaining same) changed how engine reacted. Kinda reminded me of how turning distributor on old style cars would change things. Wasnt that useful per se, still had the hot idle stall, but got me wondering well how about changes to throttle screw since it not only opened throttle valve but moves the throttle positioning sensor. I first turned screw in and engine wouldnt stay running at all. So backed it out thinking that also should kill it. Nope, at first, rpm went down bit, then computer reconfigured and rpm went up to normal 700rpm, engine got quieter (no longer running super lean), and after half hour setting and idling with temp gauge pointer in middle of NORMAL.... it didnt stall out.
Maybe today take test drive, but think this stupid simple simple thing solved the stalling problem. And here I was getting in mindset to remove fuel rail and manifolds and reseal everything thinking I had to have some kind of big air leak. Nope. Just turn dang screw. I imagine there are many, many cars in junkyards cause of stupid silly little things like this. Especially modern era stuff that can be counter intuitive to work on.
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Post by hermitjohn on Nov 30, 2017 18:41:47 GMT
Took test drive today. Didnt stall. Had little more power even. And I felt side of transmission when I got to the house and it was just mildly warm, perfect. I wouldnt have any hesitation driving it to town for groceries next time. Probably not want to try to drive it to California just yet.... LOL
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