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Post by LauraD on May 2, 2017 0:36:50 GMT
I have this wonderful insect-repellent soap that I get at a local farmer's store. The ingredients and percentages are on the package, so I thought "why not make it myself?" I bought all the essential oils and have all the necessary equipment for soaping.
Since I've never made a batch before, it occurred to me that it might be better to simply use melt & pour soap the first few times until I could perfect the recipe. Less mess, less waste, the possibility of really small batches (think one 1/4-lb bar), and no fear of the soap seizing. What could go wrong, right?.
I made one small bar, and boy does that stuff smell to high heaven! I'm almost afraid to use it, as I think it might be too strong and irritate the skin.
It finally occurred to me that, if the original soap is cold-process, a lot of the essential oils would be destroyed during the soapmaking process, thus ending in a much lower concentration. Even if it was made hot-process, the heat should do a number on the oils.
Am I right in my thinking? What should I do with the one bar - melt it and dilute with more M&P? If so, by how much? I only used 1/4 lb of M&P so I have nearly 2 lbs left, but I don't want to waste it. Would a 50% dilution do the trick, or could I just use a double boiler to "cook" it and let some of the oils evaporate off? Thoughts?
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Post by feather on May 2, 2017 1:23:24 GMT
I've made melt and pour and cold process. Why not test it on your skin? Try a little on your arm and then check it tomorrow. If it is irritated, then you can dilute it as you see fit.
ETA: yes you are right in your thinking. Cold process will make the oil less because it becomes part of the soap combining with the lye. Hot process, even more dilute.
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Post by Muller's Lane Farm on May 2, 2017 2:54:57 GMT
LauraD , I'm surprised some one listed the percentages of their soap recipe on their packaging. I'm real curious to see it (if you don't mind). With cold process, there is debate over what the lye does to the attributes of essential oils. One of the benefits of hot process is soapers can add things like essential oils after the 'cook' when the lye has been neutralized and the soap cooled below flash point. The total amount of your essential oil should be no more than 3%-4% of the total of your soap bar. For 4 oz of M&P soap, this is about 3-4 Grams of essential oil.
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Post by bowdonkey on May 4, 2017 16:59:25 GMT
Yes, post that recipe Laura. I've made a few insect repelling soaps. Nothing really worked as it is washed off. A better use of essential oils would be to make a natural repellant. I made several over the years, some worked, some didn't. I can post ideas if your interested.
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Post by Muller's Lane Farm on May 5, 2017 11:46:51 GMT
I've made a few insect repelling soaps. Nothing really worked as it is washed off. A better use of essential oils would be to make a natural repellant. THIS 1,000%
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Post by LauraD on May 5, 2017 22:39:29 GMT
The recipe is below. It claims to repel black flies, mosquitos, fleas, and ticks. What's hilarious (for lack of a better term) is that the percentages come out to more than 100%. 100.27%, to be exact, which is way too much for rounding error. The recipe I used was based on it, but not exactly the same. Here's what I made: Melt & pour soap: 113 grams (94.475%) VA Cedarwood oil: 25 drops (1.050%) Lemongrass oil: 17 drops (0.783%) Geranium oil: 18 drops (0.668%) Clove bud oil: 14 drops (0.516%) Spearmint oil: 13 drops (0.516%) Rosemary oil: 13 drops (0.516%) Thyme oil: 12 drops (0.477%) The percentages are based on densities I found for the oils on the internet, with 20 drops of oil per milliliter. As you can see, the oils add up to just over 5% of the final product. It's been four days and the soap still smells really strong. I washed my hands with it a couple days ago, and the smell just lingered. If the bugs think it stinks as much as I do, it should be really effective! Of note, I'm more concerned about repelling ticks than anything else. I haven't seen any fleas on the property, and mosquitos don't seem to be a real problem.
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Post by bowdonkey on May 6, 2017 14:05:44 GMT
I work and play in the biggest swamp in MN. We have stinging and biting insects in abundance. Insect borne diease is common. Anyway I have tried all the market has to offer in bug repellants and a few off beat ones. Bengay, Vicks and my favorite Biofreeze all repel insects. Far less expensive than purchasing herbal repellents or making your own. I have made several different formulations over the years and have settled upon one with a base of castor oil, blue aloe vera gel and pine tar, a little lavender oil rounds it out. To me it smells heavenly and it works. I make it as sticky as I can stand it and usually just use it below my knees to keep the ticks from adhering. But for all the bother and expense it just isn't worth it when a tube of Biofreeze is $7 and lasts a month or better.
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Post by LauraD on May 8, 2017 1:09:10 GMT
bowdonkey, I've never heard of Biofreeze. Where might I expect to find it, i.e. what types of stores?
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Post by bowdonkey on May 8, 2017 16:59:59 GMT
Biofreeze is found around here in the linament department. It's used for joint pain. Just about every store carries it, including walyworld. It can feel hot on hot days on exposed skin. I do put on a sun block first to seal the pores then any kind of bug dope. Deet on my skin just feels so polluting. This may be worse! I don't know, but mentally it feels more right. I'm not sure that made any sense. But that's what I use. I do mix up a batch of garden permethrin and spray all my clothes I wear in the woods. Much less expensive versus purchasing ready mixed stuff in the sports dept. 50 cents versus $10.
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